So... Did I make it?
YES!
I will give you the details below, but the bare bones are:
+/- 45 km
Day 1: 11 km, start of trail 8528 ft, camp at 9840 ft.
Day 2: 14 km, 1st pass 13776 ft, camp at 11480 ft.
Day 3: 16 km, 2nd pass 12792 ft, 3rd pass 11972 ft, camp at 8692ft.
Day 4: 4 km, Machu Picchu 7872 ft.
You may want to get a cup of tea and get comfortable for a while, for the details are many!
Day 1:
We gather in the main square, 4 intrepid hikers waiting for our adventure to begin. At exactly 6:00 am, up pulls a mini van and our guide, Enrique. We pour in and head out, picking up our porters on the way.
As we drive out of the city I reflect on the red brick houses, doors painted blue for luck, and the poverty I see. We stop briefly in a small town for lunch and a pee break... toilet paper provided. We continue along a very narrow road that follows the roiling Urubamba River, backing up every once and a while to allow oncoming traffic through.
There is a line to check in at the official post at the starting point known as km 82. Get requisite stamp in passport, cross a bridge over the river and we are on our way. I have been told that day 1 is relatively easy and enjoy the sights of prickly pear cactus and (what I think are) high mountains. Light brown and packed hard by the hundreds of people that tread it daily, the path unfolds in front of us in this scrub filled mountainous terrain.
As we start a relatively easy ascent, we allow the porters to pass on the right. Only fair considering they are carrying loads of up to 30kg on their backs, and are on their way to set up our camp for lunch. Let me just say this about the porters... WOW. They are small of stature, wiry, incredibly strong, and head over the mountains with their loads wearing only sandals. the size of their calves serving testament to the rigors ahead.
Huff, puff, up we go, interesting ruins. Huff, puff, up our first really steep climb. Then down sandy steps to lunch in a beautiful valley. So far it is sunny and we keep our fingers crossed that the afternoon rains do not materialize. Sunscreen & hats necessary.
I am already very relieved that I have a porter carrying my backpack... my small daypack is more than enough.
Little communities, lots and lots of corn, not so much "native dress", lots of donkeys, and a few travelers passing us in the opposite direction on donkeys looking pretty ill. Hmmm.
Up, up, up... the guide takes my daypack for the last half hour or so because I am stuggling up the beginning of what would become hundreds and hundreds of stairs. (if not thousands, who has the breath to count?) The porters (bless them) have our camp set up, hot water waiting and food cooking before we get there. They have already become our heroes.
It is at this point I find out that the sleeping bag I rented is smelly and damp... it went on top of the tent to air out until dark. Tent closed against mosquitoes, toes clean and dry, 2 Robaxacet in. 3100 meters, bit of sunburn, bit of swelling in my hands and face, and quite an attack of the dizzies after lunch, which slows me down considerably. Sit for a talk with Enrique about proceeding on to day 2, considered to be the most difficult. Is decided that Enrique will carry my daypack tomorrow, and I will continue on with just my poles and water.
Day 2:
Can't sleep, another casualty of altitude sickness. In the darkness I doze on and off to the beautiful and haunting sound of the wind blowing through the mountains. A midnight search for the loo (a ceramic hole in the ground, really), and I make it back to the tent just before the heavens open up for a good pour. Long before the Porters rise I am being serenaded by the Roosters and Dogs of the village below us in the valley, and the chickens pecking the ground around the tent.
Quinoa oatmeal for breakfast... that is all I can manage. I am tired, dizzy and determined.
Up, up, up. Rain, rain, rain. Walking through cloud forest now, it is lush with bromilaids, fushia, fern, and moss. Lovely twisting trees. Black birds with red foreheads and little brown birds with rooster-like foreheads. We travel in the clouds, and above the clouds. Beautiful. Pretty farms at 3500 mtrs. Alpacas and Llamas pass us upwards carrying packs of good to be sold to the long line of trekkers at the next rest point. Lots of little Llama/Alpaca poop balls on the trail. Snack break is at 3700 meters, and I am super dizzy. A bottle of orange soda brings incredible relief. We left at 6:00 am, and I have taken 4.5 hours to travel this 3 hour segment. I soldier on.
My hip hurts - not good. My breath is short - not good. I pop another coco toffee and ten minutes later we head into the nest layer of higher cloud cover and cold. Thank god I bought the coco candies.
It is at this point I decide 2 things... I am not going to look up at the trail to come and I am going to the top as slowly as necessary. The only person I am now competing with is me. The clouds shift and the view down and out was stunning. I am shocked at how high I have climbed. I settled into a pace of 40 steps, stop and rest until my heart rate settles and I can catch my breath, then repeat. Keeping my guide entertained as best I can, considering he is spending a lot of time in pause mode with me.
I am struck by the fact that each time I stop I find something beautiful to admire. Small green orchid like blooms, purple and white lupin, red bumblebees, little blue birds hopping up the path behind me, yellow cosmos, pretty brown butterflies with gold spots on their wings. Like little messages of encouragement along the way.
The valley seems to become more beautiful the higher I manage to climb. (oxygen deprivation perhaps?) We are well above the cloud line now, and I am dizzy and nauseated. Keeping to the sides of the path if it allows me to avoid the actual act of climbing a stair. People pass me, but not so quickly now, and most are huffing and puffing like me.
I refuse to look up, not wanting to see the enormity of the task ahead of me. My guide stops, and suddenly I am at there. I made it. Dead woman´s pass, and I am standing here alive. Smiles, jubilation and pictures to attest to the feat. No rest for the absolutely exhausted though as my guide commands me to head onwards down the mountain. Time is getting on, and the less of it I spend at such a high altitude the better... I have a 2 hour climb down... on huge, uneven, stone stairs pretty much the entire way.
Down, down, down. Jelly legs. Campsite is but a dot in the valley far below. The distant view of an incredible waterfall rewards my progress.
3 hour ascent took 6
2 hour descent took 2!
I get a standing ovation when I enter the camp. Exhausted happy dance.
Drop onto sleeping mat to rest before dinner. I am feeling sick to my stomach and exhausted. Can not eat dinner. A few bites of rice and I pack it in. Play cards with the gang for a few minutes while drinking celery tea, the cooks remedy for funny tummy. Tylenol & Imodium, a long long walk to the toilets. Manage to sleep a couple of hours. In the middle of the night I wake up and have to pee, but it is pouring, and there is no way I can find my way to the toilets in the pitch black of a remote mountain campground. (as mom says, oh well.)
Day 3:
I am up at first light to find the loo, and gratefully the cook has coco tea waiting for me when I get back. I eat breakfast, pack up my stuff and start out on my own early. It is a very long day today and I do not want to again end up far behind everyone.
Up, up, up. Stairs all the way up to the second pass. The group easily passes me. They stop for a rest a an Incan ruin site, but I keep going.
Porters RUN past me.
Up, up, up. Great big uneven stone stairs. The downpour last night has created a small stream flowing over the stones. Thank god rough granite is not slippery. I take a few minutes to appreciate the beauty of the fresh snowfall on the pass I crossed yesterday. Pass number 2, and I make it before the group!
A very brief stop, and a magical moment as I encounter a deer at the beginning of the descent. My gentle coaxing has it to come within a few feet of me and we stare at each other for a few moments before another hiker comes around the corner and scares it off.
I sit on a boulder at the side of the pass, enjoying the solitude. There is a niggle at the back of my neck and I look up to see a man approaching. Looks like a porter but has no pack. Strange. He steps up and asks to see my camera and I hesitantly show him. I am extremely uncomfortable and I remember reading about bad things happening to women alone on the trail. As he reaches out a group of trekkers rounds the corner and he quickly moves on.
OK, so I am slightly shaken and greatly relieved.
Down, down, down. Through a stone staircase carved into the rock. Through a cave. The feel of the air has changed... much more humid, and a beautiful lake panorama appears below through the clouds and mist. The area is becoming more tropical as I head further down. Wooden Inca bridges, 7ft high and wide bladed grasses, mounds of moss hanging off the mass of trees, the sounds of frogs and birds. Bamboo? Didn't expect that. More shades of green than is imaginable. Pretty little plant - looks like oregano but tastes better. Should I be tasting plants I don't recognize? Probably not.
Our guide provides detailed commentary at a fabulous ruin along the trail... solstice worship area, water canals, easily defended. It is high off the trail, up many high narrow steps...
The area is now saturated with moisture... like a jungle even. Water dripping off the trees everywhere. Masses of ferns, smelles so fresh, alive & intense.
I am the first to camp for lunch... must have been hungry, no? Another big congratulations from the Porters. Lunch camp was in a great site in a valley below the jungle vegetation line, drier and more open. Sweet grape like juice revives and playing cards in the hot, hot sun relaxes. Sunhat and sunscreen most definately required. Looking back, clouds now surround the mountains we came from, but there is a sunny sky ahead. Reeds, flies... mosquitoes to come? Lots of trekkers making lunch camp here and there are sounds of activity all around.
Up up up... pass number 3. Down down down. Hundreds of uneven stone stairs. My legs are rubber. Helps if I step down sideways... We go through tunnels and caves. Down on hands and knees, going backwards at one point. Rain storm opens up as we come to the next set of ruins, and another trekker and I get turned around following a porter... we get to a 2 meter jumping point just at our guide finds us and turns us around. Porter short cut apparently. Beautiful Inca terracing. Smiling Porters as they RUN downhill carrying their packs.
Camp is once again ready and waiting for us when we arrive. We play cards and havedinner. Time to thank and tip the porters who will part with us tomorrow after breakfast.
I am sweaty, smelly and dirty... one more day till shower time. Nighty night, and I actually sleep. This is good.
Day 4:
I wake at 3:00 am, and have packed by the time the porters bring me coco tea. Breakfast at 5:00 am and a quick walk to get into the line to pass through the finishing checkpoint, all by headlamp. At 5:30 the officers open the gates and we file through for the final push to the Sun Gate to watch the sun rise over Manchu Picchu. I try to keep up the frantic pace and manage most of the way until those bloody stone steps reappear, steeper than ever, and the group passes ahead. But clouds and mist have closed in and although the view of the sun gate terraces is haunting, there is no hint of the Mystical City. Time for me to take a few moments to catch my breath before beginning the next round of downhill stairs.
There is plenty of disappointment in the air and on the faces of the trekkers around me - I am just so amazed I made it and am actually here that I feel on top of the world. I suppose if I had been meant to see the city from the sun gate I would have. I am given a different experience and it is a lovely one.
We enter into the city from above, and the clouds part from time to time to tease us. Officialdom, drop off backpack and get 2nd stamp for passport. Pinch me. We have our official tour in the mist and the rain, and it is incredibly impressive even so. The tour takes us... yes, up and down massive flights of stairs. My legs will never be the same. Enough steps already!
Our guide Enrique takes his leave at this point and as a group we wander on. Plenty of close encounters with the small herd of llamas allowed to roam and keep the grass trim. More rain. Lost Sandra. Found Sandra. Take refuge in a coffee shop while it pours. Ridiculous prices.. take my advise and pack your snacks if you can. We pass an hour chatting till the rain stops. Back into the ruins, the clouds part, the sun comes out and it is magnificent! The group wants to go back up to the high entrance for pictures, but opt out and make my way to a bench with a view. Sitting down, enjoying the flowers and ruins, surrounded by llamas, watching the gardeners work at keeping the jungle back from the edges of the ruins. Listening to the roar of the river below, and the whistle of the trains arriving from Cusco with more tourists.
Feeling very blessed.
The trip back to the school is uneventful, a long train ride, a short bus ride and then... A HOT SHOWER AND A COMFY BED!
Thursday 29 January 2009
Saturday 24 January 2009
Finger puppets
No spell check feature here, so you will have to take the following raw...
A beautiful Saturday afternoon, no sign yet of the so far daily thunderstorm and deluge. I have been out and about, renting a backpack, a sleeping bag and some trekking poles. Which of course is your first clue that I am, in fact, going to hike the Inca Trail starting tomorrow morning at 5:30.
We had our orientation last night, and there were deep discussions on the state of my breathing, the actual route per day, and what kind of contingency could be in place if I run into trouble. The long and short of it is that I will hire an extra porter to carry my backpack, and to pace me. No need to try and keep up with the twenty-somethings that make up the rest of our group. If there comes a time that I can not keep going, or the guide gets particularly worried, I will have the extra porter to accompany me on the reverse trek. Then would come a train trip and a wait in Aguas Calientes (a town below the ruins) to rejoin my group as they finish the trail.
As far as what I have seen so far in Cusco, this city loves it´s churches! Enormous, extravagantly gilded and old, old, old. Seeing the large Inca stones that some of these churches have been built on top of is really neat. They are HUGE and fit together like lego, made up of all kinds of interlocking shapes. Very earthquake proof apparently. Not the buildings that sit atop them though, so the Inca gods may yet get their revenge.
There is an early colonial style of painting known as Cusqueña and there are large original religious oil paintings everywhere. Some are quite stunning. One of note there is the enormous one depicting/imitating the last supper, with a cooked guinea pig (a traditional Peruvian delicacy) on the main platter in front of Jesus. I had to keep myself from laughing, because I think the guide would have been quite insulted...
Walking about the plazas and down the narrow winding streets, I am accosted at every turn by people trying to sell me all sorts of interesting items! Yesterday I had a very cute boy come up to me and ask me if I wanted to buy the adorable puppy he had in his hands. A puppy? To a tourist? I have had to adjust my very polite Canadian interaction style, and have become quite proficient at not making eye contact, saying no and brushing bye. There are men, women and children in full traditional Peruvian dress leading llamas and alpacas around while they try and get people to take their pictures for a fee. I find it sad. There are animal droppings everywhere... it is like walking a landmine field at times.
I went into this really cool shop that sells chocolates, toffee, cakes and brownies made from coca leaves. They were tasty, and I bought some of the toffee to chew while I am trekking. I am told by everyone here it is the best remedy for altitude sickness, indeed it has been used by locals for hundreds of years. The porters use it as they run up and down the mountains to keep ahead of the trekkers. I expect I will need it when I get to day two of the trek. We will have a 1200 meter ascent, and then will descend that and maybe more to sleep lower. I should just FLY over the pass...
There is a clubhouse here for members of the South American Explorers Club (I am) and they have great trip reports, reading materials and a lovely outdoor patio where I have had tea with other gringos. I saw Obamas speech there too. Wow.
If all goes well I will be out of touch until Thursday... cold, wet and gasping in the Andean Highlands, and elated about making this part of my dream come true!
I am headed outside into the sun now, and will no doubt be greeted by this really cute Peruvian boy selling totally adorable finger puppets. He follows me constantly, and MIGHT eventually wear me down.
A beautiful Saturday afternoon, no sign yet of the so far daily thunderstorm and deluge. I have been out and about, renting a backpack, a sleeping bag and some trekking poles. Which of course is your first clue that I am, in fact, going to hike the Inca Trail starting tomorrow morning at 5:30.
We had our orientation last night, and there were deep discussions on the state of my breathing, the actual route per day, and what kind of contingency could be in place if I run into trouble. The long and short of it is that I will hire an extra porter to carry my backpack, and to pace me. No need to try and keep up with the twenty-somethings that make up the rest of our group. If there comes a time that I can not keep going, or the guide gets particularly worried, I will have the extra porter to accompany me on the reverse trek. Then would come a train trip and a wait in Aguas Calientes (a town below the ruins) to rejoin my group as they finish the trail.
As far as what I have seen so far in Cusco, this city loves it´s churches! Enormous, extravagantly gilded and old, old, old. Seeing the large Inca stones that some of these churches have been built on top of is really neat. They are HUGE and fit together like lego, made up of all kinds of interlocking shapes. Very earthquake proof apparently. Not the buildings that sit atop them though, so the Inca gods may yet get their revenge.
There is an early colonial style of painting known as Cusqueña and there are large original religious oil paintings everywhere. Some are quite stunning. One of note there is the enormous one depicting/imitating the last supper, with a cooked guinea pig (a traditional Peruvian delicacy) on the main platter in front of Jesus. I had to keep myself from laughing, because I think the guide would have been quite insulted...
Walking about the plazas and down the narrow winding streets, I am accosted at every turn by people trying to sell me all sorts of interesting items! Yesterday I had a very cute boy come up to me and ask me if I wanted to buy the adorable puppy he had in his hands. A puppy? To a tourist? I have had to adjust my very polite Canadian interaction style, and have become quite proficient at not making eye contact, saying no and brushing bye. There are men, women and children in full traditional Peruvian dress leading llamas and alpacas around while they try and get people to take their pictures for a fee. I find it sad. There are animal droppings everywhere... it is like walking a landmine field at times.
I went into this really cool shop that sells chocolates, toffee, cakes and brownies made from coca leaves. They were tasty, and I bought some of the toffee to chew while I am trekking. I am told by everyone here it is the best remedy for altitude sickness, indeed it has been used by locals for hundreds of years. The porters use it as they run up and down the mountains to keep ahead of the trekkers. I expect I will need it when I get to day two of the trek. We will have a 1200 meter ascent, and then will descend that and maybe more to sleep lower. I should just FLY over the pass...
There is a clubhouse here for members of the South American Explorers Club (I am) and they have great trip reports, reading materials and a lovely outdoor patio where I have had tea with other gringos. I saw Obamas speech there too. Wow.
If all goes well I will be out of touch until Thursday... cold, wet and gasping in the Andean Highlands, and elated about making this part of my dream come true!
I am headed outside into the sun now, and will no doubt be greeted by this really cute Peruvian boy selling totally adorable finger puppets. He follows me constantly, and MIGHT eventually wear me down.
Thursday 22 January 2009
Should have brought more woolies
Day one of Spanish lessons started with just the basics such as numbers, alphabet, beginners questions etc.
Today I am finally feeling human again after a run in with "soroche", or altitude sickness. No more headache or vomiting. That was fun. NOT. I still gasp for breath after a few minutes of exertion, but did manage to walk to the main square. Note to self: next time stop for a few days rest at a lower altitude!
So far I can tell you that the streets and passageways are all cobbled and inset with stone designs. Very pretty really. That I have taken such notice is quite simple... one foot in front of the other, go on, up the hill, gasp, keep going, gasp.... Get the picture? I am not at all sure I will be acclimatized enough to do my trek starting Sunday, but my fingers are crossed.
Nights have been very, very cold here. It reminds me of winter in Jerusalem, with thick walled stone buildings and no heat. I have 3 very thick alpaca blankets, and really, really wish I had brought more sweaters. I am quite certain that the sleeping bag I brought will do diddly squat to keep me warm while I camp. I have been assured that I will be able to rent a warmer bag, along with trekking poles and extra sleeping mats. Now all I need is more woolly underwear and I should be set. That is provided I can breath properly by then...
Can´t tell you much about the food yet, other than I managed to keep some of it down yesterday. Pasta with pesto sauce... very Peruvian no? Breakfasts and Lunches are provided as part of my lodgings, and so far I have not ventured out to find dinner. I hear that there is good pizza, chinese and israeli cuisine to be had. Really.
Tomorrow I am going on a general tour of the city to get my bearings, and then will feel comfortable bopping around. People are friendly, my bank card works and I have homework to do.
Adios!
Today I am finally feeling human again after a run in with "soroche", or altitude sickness. No more headache or vomiting. That was fun. NOT. I still gasp for breath after a few minutes of exertion, but did manage to walk to the main square. Note to self: next time stop for a few days rest at a lower altitude!
So far I can tell you that the streets and passageways are all cobbled and inset with stone designs. Very pretty really. That I have taken such notice is quite simple... one foot in front of the other, go on, up the hill, gasp, keep going, gasp.... Get the picture? I am not at all sure I will be acclimatized enough to do my trek starting Sunday, but my fingers are crossed.
Nights have been very, very cold here. It reminds me of winter in Jerusalem, with thick walled stone buildings and no heat. I have 3 very thick alpaca blankets, and really, really wish I had brought more sweaters. I am quite certain that the sleeping bag I brought will do diddly squat to keep me warm while I camp. I have been assured that I will be able to rent a warmer bag, along with trekking poles and extra sleeping mats. Now all I need is more woolly underwear and I should be set. That is provided I can breath properly by then...
Can´t tell you much about the food yet, other than I managed to keep some of it down yesterday. Pasta with pesto sauce... very Peruvian no? Breakfasts and Lunches are provided as part of my lodgings, and so far I have not ventured out to find dinner. I hear that there is good pizza, chinese and israeli cuisine to be had. Really.
Tomorrow I am going on a general tour of the city to get my bearings, and then will feel comfortable bopping around. People are friendly, my bank card works and I have homework to do.
Adios!
Tuesday 20 January 2009
Fuzzy Wuzzies have come home to roost
If it is Tuesday, then it must be Cusco... I am not sure if it is the altitude, jet lag or the copious amounts of coca leaf tea, but I feel like I am doing things through a fog. Quite interesting really.
So what to tell you about my journey here? Did you know that the de-icing fluid they use at Toronto Pearson airport is Lime Green? Sticks in my mind for some reason... although the R2D2 type unit they used to spray it was pretty cool too.
A very nice lady at Air Canada had switched my seat to a row with no other occupants. Was just about first class; put my feet up, had my choice of an array of entertainment options, real food, and everything. Blankets, mask, earbuds... pillows too. Very unexpected. Easy even.
Canada customs could learn a thing or two about efficiency from their Peruvian counterparts. They had 15 agents working and cleared out our planeload in less than 10 minutes. Didn't have to wait 3 hours for my bags either.
I was met and whisked away to overnight in a hotel/hostel. The drivers are certifiable, but they obviously have a unique appreciation for music because the air was filled with the varied tones of horn honking. The hotel was basic (read I slept in my clothes on top of the covers) but friendly.
A short, uneventful flight to Cusco concluded when I was met and again taken to my lodgings. It was very pretty on the approach to the city, with all the buildings being small and covered with red tile roofs. It didn't look quite like the scar on the landscape that big cities usually do.
So I have checked in with the school, found my lodgings, had my first meal and am now ready to make like that tree I talked about in my last post and CRASH.
Nighty night.
Linda
So what to tell you about my journey here? Did you know that the de-icing fluid they use at Toronto Pearson airport is Lime Green? Sticks in my mind for some reason... although the R2D2 type unit they used to spray it was pretty cool too.
A very nice lady at Air Canada had switched my seat to a row with no other occupants. Was just about first class; put my feet up, had my choice of an array of entertainment options, real food, and everything. Blankets, mask, earbuds... pillows too. Very unexpected. Easy even.
Canada customs could learn a thing or two about efficiency from their Peruvian counterparts. They had 15 agents working and cleared out our planeload in less than 10 minutes. Didn't have to wait 3 hours for my bags either.
I was met and whisked away to overnight in a hotel/hostel. The drivers are certifiable, but they obviously have a unique appreciation for music because the air was filled with the varied tones of horn honking. The hotel was basic (read I slept in my clothes on top of the covers) but friendly.
A short, uneventful flight to Cusco concluded when I was met and again taken to my lodgings. It was very pretty on the approach to the city, with all the buildings being small and covered with red tile roofs. It didn't look quite like the scar on the landscape that big cities usually do.
So I have checked in with the school, found my lodgings, had my first meal and am now ready to make like that tree I talked about in my last post and CRASH.
Nighty night.
Linda
Saturday 17 January 2009
A comfortable old coat
Toronto feels just like a comfortable old coat, or that was the thought that floated up as I was traveling along the 401 after arriving at the airport. So familiar and easy to assume.
But I am ahead of myself.
After driving me to the Comox Airport, Christina, (who is caring for my pups while I roam) gifted me with her wish that I find my journey "unexpectedly easy".
When the runway was closed due to fog I thought "oh oh". Enter a shuttle that quickly whisked us to Campbell River where the skies were clear. Easy.
When the fog at the Vancouver Airport was closing in and threatening our landing, our two very personable and capable navigators put us down perfectly. Easy. (Ladies, they were not at all hard on the eyes either)
Even though I arrived very late in Vancouver, Central Mountain Air had taken it upon themselves to notify all our connecting flights, and we literally walked from one gate to our flights waiting at the next gates. Easy.
My new super-dooper travel ear plugs were cool... didn't feel the altitude pressure changes at all. And I got the WHOLE can of ginger-ail for my beverage! (It takes so little to please me, no?)
I did end up waiting almost three hours for my luggage. Although it was in fact ABSOLUTELY NOT LOST, apparently it chose to take a different flight than me? This gave Amy and I a chance to have some tea, wander a bit and chat. Easy again, see?
What I am gleaning is that although problems will be arising, they will be unexpectedly easy to have solved. Or that's my take so far!
Ah Toronto, -25 Degrees Celsius. Bone chilling, teeth grinding, eye watering, breath stealing, painful, frigid, COLD. I had a very shortened day of shopping downtown, while Amy had quite a giggle at my expense as I shuffled around cursing and whining while we moved from store to store along King and Queen Street. It was as rude a reminder of the worst of the weather Toronto can dish up, as was the breadth of retail offering a reminder of the seductive nature of abundance Toronto can tempt with.
By the time we got back on the subway to head north to pick up the car I was experiencing a personal version of the perfect storm; Side effects of my last rabies shot, jet lag, and lack of sleep. I managed to stay upright through the grocery shopping, but when I got back to my room I made like a large tree felled by a logger. TIMBER...
Had a lovely dinner with a group made up of some of the best friends a gal could ask for, which brings us back to the comfortable old coat.
I am astounded by how quickly it feels like I never stopped wearing it.
Nighty-night time now.
Linda
But I am ahead of myself.
After driving me to the Comox Airport, Christina, (who is caring for my pups while I roam) gifted me with her wish that I find my journey "unexpectedly easy".
When the runway was closed due to fog I thought "oh oh". Enter a shuttle that quickly whisked us to Campbell River where the skies were clear. Easy.
When the fog at the Vancouver Airport was closing in and threatening our landing, our two very personable and capable navigators put us down perfectly. Easy. (Ladies, they were not at all hard on the eyes either)
Even though I arrived very late in Vancouver, Central Mountain Air had taken it upon themselves to notify all our connecting flights, and we literally walked from one gate to our flights waiting at the next gates. Easy.
My new super-dooper travel ear plugs were cool... didn't feel the altitude pressure changes at all. And I got the WHOLE can of ginger-ail for my beverage! (It takes so little to please me, no?)
I did end up waiting almost three hours for my luggage. Although it was in fact ABSOLUTELY NOT LOST, apparently it chose to take a different flight than me? This gave Amy and I a chance to have some tea, wander a bit and chat. Easy again, see?
What I am gleaning is that although problems will be arising, they will be unexpectedly easy to have solved. Or that's my take so far!
Ah Toronto, -25 Degrees Celsius. Bone chilling, teeth grinding, eye watering, breath stealing, painful, frigid, COLD. I had a very shortened day of shopping downtown, while Amy had quite a giggle at my expense as I shuffled around cursing and whining while we moved from store to store along King and Queen Street. It was as rude a reminder of the worst of the weather Toronto can dish up, as was the breadth of retail offering a reminder of the seductive nature of abundance Toronto can tempt with.
By the time we got back on the subway to head north to pick up the car I was experiencing a personal version of the perfect storm; Side effects of my last rabies shot, jet lag, and lack of sleep. I managed to stay upright through the grocery shopping, but when I got back to my room I made like a large tree felled by a logger. TIMBER...
Had a lovely dinner with a group made up of some of the best friends a gal could ask for, which brings us back to the comfortable old coat.
I am astounded by how quickly it feels like I never stopped wearing it.
Nighty-night time now.
Linda
Thursday 15 January 2009
Just 2 sleeps to go...
Tomorrow is crunch day, with a list of things I MUST get done. Last Rabies Shot, Currency exchange, solving an ongoing Canine/Vet situation. Early to bed, as my flight to Toronto leaves first thing Friday. I have a day to shop, a day to visit family, and then my adventure really begins!
My itinerary as it stands right now. Not written in stone by any means, except for the first 10 days or so.
Jan 19: I am slated to arrive in Lima late in the evening, where I will spend time convincing the customs officer that the picture in my passport resembling an old Russian/Italian woman is in fact the young, vivacious and attractive unit standing in front of him. Then off to pick up my ABSOLUTELY NOT LOST luggage and out into the airport to look for someone carrying a sign with my name on it. I will then be safely transported to a hostel where I can collapse in exhaustion.
Jan 20: After a return trip to the Lima airport I will take a flight to the Andean city of Cusco, once again pick up my ABSOLUTELY NOT LOST luggage, and be transported to the student housing at Amauta Spanish School. I will get settled and then get my first real look around. Might find some food at this point. Will no doubt collapse from exhaustion and my first dose of "soroch", or altitude sickness. Will begin drinking copious amounts of Coco Leaf Tea to try and acclimatize to 11,000 ft above sea level.
Jan 21: Day recommended to take it easy and acclimatize, what with my planned trek over the mountains starting in just a few days. More Coco Leaf Tea, lots of filtered water (don't need the runs while I trek, now do I?). Food might also be a good idea.
Jan 22-24: Hables espaneol? Me neither, so private spanish lessons start! I think my first request will be to be taken to the market so I can learn to buy food, ask to find the bathrooms, figure out the money...
Jan 25-29: The famed Inca Trail and Manchu Picchu. Now I will find out if this out of shape middle aged body will take me where I want to go, and survive the process. I will either have my photo taken at the 13,770 ft. summit of "dead womans pass", or I will be brought down looking rather green on the back of a donkey. Mostly will depend on how my "acclimatization" goes...
Jan 30 & 31: Painful recovery from very long hard trek, and more spanish lessons.
Feb 1-8: Spanish study and cultural time in a town called Taray, in the Sacred Valley. (you know, the one with all the spiders apparently). See what interesting things I can find to eat and do; maybe get to learn a bit about the local weaving techniques.
Feb 9-22: More Spanish in Cusco, with as many field trips as possible.
Feb 22-Mar 1/2: Manu biosphere reserve. What can I tell you, I am looking forward to getting really wet and dirty so that I can see, hear, touch, taste and smell what is called one of the lushest and most diverse areas on the planet. Time will tell if the mosquitoes, bats, ants, snakes, SPIDERS or foot rot do me in and have me babbling in fetal position all the way home...
For the rest of my time I have no fixed plans... just lots of places I want to see.
March 12 should find me back enjoying the tail end of an Ontario winter. The plan is to be back in Courtenay March 19th.
Hasta Luego!
My itinerary as it stands right now. Not written in stone by any means, except for the first 10 days or so.
Jan 19: I am slated to arrive in Lima late in the evening, where I will spend time convincing the customs officer that the picture in my passport resembling an old Russian/Italian woman is in fact the young, vivacious and attractive unit standing in front of him. Then off to pick up my ABSOLUTELY NOT LOST luggage and out into the airport to look for someone carrying a sign with my name on it. I will then be safely transported to a hostel where I can collapse in exhaustion.
Jan 20: After a return trip to the Lima airport I will take a flight to the Andean city of Cusco, once again pick up my ABSOLUTELY NOT LOST luggage, and be transported to the student housing at Amauta Spanish School. I will get settled and then get my first real look around. Might find some food at this point. Will no doubt collapse from exhaustion and my first dose of "soroch", or altitude sickness. Will begin drinking copious amounts of Coco Leaf Tea to try and acclimatize to 11,000 ft above sea level.
Jan 21: Day recommended to take it easy and acclimatize, what with my planned trek over the mountains starting in just a few days. More Coco Leaf Tea, lots of filtered water (don't need the runs while I trek, now do I?). Food might also be a good idea.
Jan 22-24: Hables espaneol? Me neither, so private spanish lessons start! I think my first request will be to be taken to the market so I can learn to buy food, ask to find the bathrooms, figure out the money...
Jan 25-29: The famed Inca Trail and Manchu Picchu. Now I will find out if this out of shape middle aged body will take me where I want to go, and survive the process. I will either have my photo taken at the 13,770 ft. summit of "dead womans pass", or I will be brought down looking rather green on the back of a donkey. Mostly will depend on how my "acclimatization" goes...
Jan 30 & 31: Painful recovery from very long hard trek, and more spanish lessons.
Feb 1-8: Spanish study and cultural time in a town called Taray, in the Sacred Valley. (you know, the one with all the spiders apparently). See what interesting things I can find to eat and do; maybe get to learn a bit about the local weaving techniques.
Feb 9-22: More Spanish in Cusco, with as many field trips as possible.
Feb 22-Mar 1/2: Manu biosphere reserve. What can I tell you, I am looking forward to getting really wet and dirty so that I can see, hear, touch, taste and smell what is called one of the lushest and most diverse areas on the planet. Time will tell if the mosquitoes, bats, ants, snakes, SPIDERS or foot rot do me in and have me babbling in fetal position all the way home...
For the rest of my time I have no fixed plans... just lots of places I want to see.
March 12 should find me back enjoying the tail end of an Ontario winter. The plan is to be back in Courtenay March 19th.
Hasta Luego!
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