No, not the "I have found a soul mate" unavailable. Just an "I am out of technologies reach" kind of unavailable.
I'll take lots of notes, and should be in touch around the 2nd and after my upcoming Amazonian Expedition!
Tuesday 24 February 2009
Monday 23 February 2009
Sleeper busses... Chiclayo attractions
Yesterday was a long day.
I went to Chiclayo, which is a city to the north of Trujillo, also on the coast. It's big tourist draw is the Archaeological find known as The Lord of Sipan. This was an unraided tomb found containing said Lord, huge amounts of ornamental items (gold and silver) as well as his attendants, animal sacrifices, wives etc.
Chiclayo is a 3 hour bus ride from Trujillo. Each way . It turned out to be a 15 hour day. We saw the original pyramids and toured a museum dedicated to the artifacts and history of the find. I also toured a museum tracing the ceramics found in the area back some 5000 years.
We also wasted a lot of time driving around aimlessly, and my english tour again turned out to be spanish s o there was a lot of info lost in translation.
It rained. People seemed confused by the rain.
There were Turkey Vultures everywhere. This seemed to be appropriate given the amount of garbage piled up at the sides of the road. Me thinks there is no weekly garbage pick up here.
Lots more sugarcane. Many fields being burnt prior to harvest. Little bits of burnt black sugarcane floating in the air all around us. Tidy rows of sugarcane in all growth phases, and the irrigation system can be seen clearly in the fields just planted. Really Interesting.
Snowy White Egrets flying, picking at the planted fields, and grooming themselves in the sun.
Swollen rivers, families picnicking. Mosquitoes. Many fruit trees. A sugar factory.
Cars honking, motorized rickshaws, a huge, loud and crowded market.
I was ready for the sleeper bus to bring us home by the end of the day. Seriously reclining, with foot rests. And a movie.
Crackers and water all day. Restaurants closed when we got home.
Today I am frustrated because Lan cancelled my flight this morning (it was raining) and so I will miss my connection to Iquitos. I am now confirmed for the late night flight to Lima and will sit in the airport overnight in order to catch the first flight out to the Amazonian Jungle town of Iquitos at 5:00 am.
So now I have 10 hours, no plans, no hotel, and lots of luggage. I am frustrated.
Sigh.
We plan, God laughs. and all that.
I went to Chiclayo, which is a city to the north of Trujillo, also on the coast. It's big tourist draw is the Archaeological find known as The Lord of Sipan. This was an unraided tomb found containing said Lord, huge amounts of ornamental items (gold and silver) as well as his attendants, animal sacrifices, wives etc.
Chiclayo is a 3 hour bus ride from Trujillo. Each way . It turned out to be a 15 hour day. We saw the original pyramids and toured a museum dedicated to the artifacts and history of the find. I also toured a museum tracing the ceramics found in the area back some 5000 years.
We also wasted a lot of time driving around aimlessly, and my english tour again turned out to be spanish s o there was a lot of info lost in translation.
It rained. People seemed confused by the rain.
There were Turkey Vultures everywhere. This seemed to be appropriate given the amount of garbage piled up at the sides of the road. Me thinks there is no weekly garbage pick up here.
Lots more sugarcane. Many fields being burnt prior to harvest. Little bits of burnt black sugarcane floating in the air all around us. Tidy rows of sugarcane in all growth phases, and the irrigation system can be seen clearly in the fields just planted. Really Interesting.
Snowy White Egrets flying, picking at the planted fields, and grooming themselves in the sun.
Swollen rivers, families picnicking. Mosquitoes. Many fruit trees. A sugar factory.
Cars honking, motorized rickshaws, a huge, loud and crowded market.
I was ready for the sleeper bus to bring us home by the end of the day. Seriously reclining, with foot rests. And a movie.
Crackers and water all day. Restaurants closed when we got home.
Today I am frustrated because Lan cancelled my flight this morning (it was raining) and so I will miss my connection to Iquitos. I am now confirmed for the late night flight to Lima and will sit in the airport overnight in order to catch the first flight out to the Amazonian Jungle town of Iquitos at 5:00 am.
So now I have 10 hours, no plans, no hotel, and lots of luggage. I am frustrated.
Sigh.
We plan, God laughs. and all that.
Friday 20 February 2009
Should have gone to the beach. El Brujo..
So I went to a set of Ruins today called El Brujo. I had read all about how there was this incredible find, and that this was THE spot not to miss. See above. The beach would have been way better. A very long and bumpy ride through 114000 hectares of sugarcane brought us to a partially excavated site and a museum that has not yet opened. Spanish speaking guide. Trés disappointing.
Saw another few hairless peruvian dogs though. The highlight of the day. They apparently have a higher body temperature and were used as living hot water bottles for warmth at night.
Toured an old colonial home, took some pictures, and finally got some movement from Air Canada about a return flight.
Treated myself to a lemon daiquiri with dinner, and am headed off for a much needed shower, and to dreamland.
Mañana is show time... peruvian paso horses and marinara dancing.
Buenos Noches.
Saw another few hairless peruvian dogs though. The highlight of the day. They apparently have a higher body temperature and were used as living hot water bottles for warmth at night.
Toured an old colonial home, took some pictures, and finally got some movement from Air Canada about a return flight.
Treated myself to a lemon daiquiri with dinner, and am headed off for a much needed shower, and to dreamland.
Mañana is show time... peruvian paso horses and marinara dancing.
Buenos Noches.
Thursday 19 February 2009
Adobe dreams... Chan Chan
Last night, after throwing the towel in on my quest for real food, I settled for stale white cake and questionable pineapple juice from a street vendor. I figured that since I am already taking antibiotics the bugs won't make me sick. So far so good.
After this incredibly nutritious supper I wandered over to the main square, beautifully lit at night, and was delighted to discover that there were a variety of dancers putting on performances. Something tribal, something colonial and a wonderful couple doing the local dance, the marinara. Think tango, but with hankies waving and a very large hat used to great effect by el senior. I was enchanted.
I was the only gringo around. Obviously. I was the only adult female not wearing skin tight clothes and high heeled mules. Can't see giving that look a try so I will leave it to the locals.
Hit a hotel for breakfast this morning... pancakes!
Fun facts:
There are some 12,000 taxis in this little city. (I am pretty sure that each and every one of them has already had a go at running me down)
It only rains here once every few years... when el niño comes calling. This was supposed to be the year, but only a sprinkle or two so far. They are thankful because it usually comes with devastating floods and damage.
My Guide´s name is Marisa, she speaks really good english, and she dances. Quelle coincidence! Just like my neice.
My outfit for the day: Socks, sandals, long pants, a large buttoned up, long sleeved shirt and sunhat. I want no trouble from the sunburn gods, given that the meds. came with a warning that they make skin extra sun sensitive. I look really, really silly.
Then it was time to tour. Our group piled into an ancient van ("the bus") and headed out of the city. We went through a flourishing farming community. Corn, sugarcane, tomatoes, peppers... our tour guide informed us that this area is the largest Asparagus and Artichoke producing area in the country and exports all over the world. Cool. This is the desert, but they use an aqueduct system that channels water runoff from the mountains, and then divert it to the various fields. This practice has apparently been used successfully for more than 2000 years. Mostly with the same canals.
We also passed many brick making yards. Still using old fashioned back breaking labour, the drying bricks sit out in the sun in many, many tidy rows. So glad I don't know firsthand how that kind of labour feels.
We started our official tour with the Moche temples of the Sun and Moon. Very Cool. They apparently worshiped the god of the mountains, and the coloured 3-D wall decorations that have been uncovered depict various deities, animals and decapitations. They have uncovered some of the 4 out of 5 temples of the Moon that were built one on top of each other. When one king died, they filled in the temples and built a new one on top of the remains. This is also true of the temple of the Sun, although they have done no excavations. (or so I think)
These temples are located on high ground, abutting a mountain, and from this vantage point I am reminded of the Sinai. No pink in the mountains though, there are black mountains and beige sand. Looking over towards the sea there is a large area that is green and cultivated sitting in the middle of this desert. Think large kibbutz in the middle of nowhere.
We return to the hotel for lunch (jam sandwiches / leftovers from breakfast) and I have a nap.
My p.m. includes a smaller temple, the site museum for Chan Chan and the ruins of Chan Chan themselves. I will skip describing the first two, as they were fairly unremarkable.
Chan Chan on the other hand did not disappoint. Wow. Adobe design work, walls nine steps thick, 11 compounds, outer defensive walls that are 14 meters high with just one small entrance. Only one compound was open for viewing, the rest are waiting for exploration. Each time a new king came around they built a new compound/temple. Right in the middle is a natural spring fed aqueduct. The estimate is that there were 35,000 people living in the area during this period. Hope my pictures turn out well, because, like a good dream, there was too much to take in and remember.
We then went to a small beach town to see the reed boats used by the local fishermen. A wee letdown after the splendor of the ruins, but the surf was lovely and the water a much lighter colour than I expected of the Pacific. And I saw the cutest puppy...
Speaking of dogs, (were we?) they have THE coolest dogs here at the archaeological sights... Hairless peruvian dogs. They are so ugly they are beautiful. They are a nationally protected species because their numbers are dwindling, and they have proof they have been around as a breed for more than 2000 years. (I am totally fascinated).
Uncomfortable ride back in rickety old bus. Rain clouds over the distant mountains spell good fortune for the crops. Vegetable omelet for dinner. :)
Mañana is yet more ruins. I will probably subject you to all the details.
After this incredibly nutritious supper I wandered over to the main square, beautifully lit at night, and was delighted to discover that there were a variety of dancers putting on performances. Something tribal, something colonial and a wonderful couple doing the local dance, the marinara. Think tango, but with hankies waving and a very large hat used to great effect by el senior. I was enchanted.
I was the only gringo around. Obviously. I was the only adult female not wearing skin tight clothes and high heeled mules. Can't see giving that look a try so I will leave it to the locals.
Hit a hotel for breakfast this morning... pancakes!
Fun facts:
There are some 12,000 taxis in this little city. (I am pretty sure that each and every one of them has already had a go at running me down)
It only rains here once every few years... when el niño comes calling. This was supposed to be the year, but only a sprinkle or two so far. They are thankful because it usually comes with devastating floods and damage.
My Guide´s name is Marisa, she speaks really good english, and she dances. Quelle coincidence! Just like my neice.
My outfit for the day: Socks, sandals, long pants, a large buttoned up, long sleeved shirt and sunhat. I want no trouble from the sunburn gods, given that the meds. came with a warning that they make skin extra sun sensitive. I look really, really silly.
Then it was time to tour. Our group piled into an ancient van ("the bus") and headed out of the city. We went through a flourishing farming community. Corn, sugarcane, tomatoes, peppers... our tour guide informed us that this area is the largest Asparagus and Artichoke producing area in the country and exports all over the world. Cool. This is the desert, but they use an aqueduct system that channels water runoff from the mountains, and then divert it to the various fields. This practice has apparently been used successfully for more than 2000 years. Mostly with the same canals.
We also passed many brick making yards. Still using old fashioned back breaking labour, the drying bricks sit out in the sun in many, many tidy rows. So glad I don't know firsthand how that kind of labour feels.
We started our official tour with the Moche temples of the Sun and Moon. Very Cool. They apparently worshiped the god of the mountains, and the coloured 3-D wall decorations that have been uncovered depict various deities, animals and decapitations. They have uncovered some of the 4 out of 5 temples of the Moon that were built one on top of each other. When one king died, they filled in the temples and built a new one on top of the remains. This is also true of the temple of the Sun, although they have done no excavations. (or so I think)
These temples are located on high ground, abutting a mountain, and from this vantage point I am reminded of the Sinai. No pink in the mountains though, there are black mountains and beige sand. Looking over towards the sea there is a large area that is green and cultivated sitting in the middle of this desert. Think large kibbutz in the middle of nowhere.
We return to the hotel for lunch (jam sandwiches / leftovers from breakfast) and I have a nap.
My p.m. includes a smaller temple, the site museum for Chan Chan and the ruins of Chan Chan themselves. I will skip describing the first two, as they were fairly unremarkable.
Chan Chan on the other hand did not disappoint. Wow. Adobe design work, walls nine steps thick, 11 compounds, outer defensive walls that are 14 meters high with just one small entrance. Only one compound was open for viewing, the rest are waiting for exploration. Each time a new king came around they built a new compound/temple. Right in the middle is a natural spring fed aqueduct. The estimate is that there were 35,000 people living in the area during this period. Hope my pictures turn out well, because, like a good dream, there was too much to take in and remember.
We then went to a small beach town to see the reed boats used by the local fishermen. A wee letdown after the splendor of the ruins, but the surf was lovely and the water a much lighter colour than I expected of the Pacific. And I saw the cutest puppy...
Speaking of dogs, (were we?) they have THE coolest dogs here at the archaeological sights... Hairless peruvian dogs. They are so ugly they are beautiful. They are a nationally protected species because their numbers are dwindling, and they have proof they have been around as a breed for more than 2000 years. (I am totally fascinated).
Uncomfortable ride back in rickety old bus. Rain clouds over the distant mountains spell good fortune for the crops. Vegetable omelet for dinner. :)
Mañana is yet more ruins. I will probably subject you to all the details.
Wednesday 18 February 2009
Hot, hot, hot... finally in Trujillo
Ah, the equatorial sunshine!
I slept like a log, and awoke early for my first full day here in Trujillo. I spent the day popping in and out of the hostel for fan and re-hydration breaks, and to reapply sunscreen. This city is dazzling. The buildings in the main downtown square are all painted bright pastel or white colours, and have the moorish look of southern spain.
Which may explain why almost no one here seems to speak any english. Too bad my spanish classes turned out to be such a bust.
Today was a wandering day. Up and down streets, round and round. I think I have the lay of the land now, so to speak.
Last night was a search for food night. Wandered for an hour looking for something more than an ice cream stand. I was obviously wandering around THE shopping district, with streets choked with cars and pedestrians. Lots of clothes, electronics, banks, hardware stores etc.
Everything under the sun except food.
Ok, so by this time I the muffin I had eaten at the airport some 8 hours before was ancient history and I was ready to eat my arm. Just as I gave up and was headed back to the hostel for an energy bar I thankfully came across a diner and had a veggie omelet. Yay!
Had an energy bar for breakfast, and a veggie omelet for lunch. I am sensing a pattern here, no? This may not be the place I am going to pack back on some of the many pounds I have lost in the last month.
BTW... I notice that there are no stop signs at any of the intersections. Winner takes all it seems.
The sun is setting and I am going to stroll the main square again. Once I find dinner that is, my appetite has returned with a vengeance.
I slept like a log, and awoke early for my first full day here in Trujillo. I spent the day popping in and out of the hostel for fan and re-hydration breaks, and to reapply sunscreen. This city is dazzling. The buildings in the main downtown square are all painted bright pastel or white colours, and have the moorish look of southern spain.
Which may explain why almost no one here seems to speak any english. Too bad my spanish classes turned out to be such a bust.
Today was a wandering day. Up and down streets, round and round. I think I have the lay of the land now, so to speak.
Last night was a search for food night. Wandered for an hour looking for something more than an ice cream stand. I was obviously wandering around THE shopping district, with streets choked with cars and pedestrians. Lots of clothes, electronics, banks, hardware stores etc.
Everything under the sun except food.
Ok, so by this time I the muffin I had eaten at the airport some 8 hours before was ancient history and I was ready to eat my arm. Just as I gave up and was headed back to the hostel for an energy bar I thankfully came across a diner and had a veggie omelet. Yay!
Had an energy bar for breakfast, and a veggie omelet for lunch. I am sensing a pattern here, no? This may not be the place I am going to pack back on some of the many pounds I have lost in the last month.
BTW... I notice that there are no stop signs at any of the intersections. Winner takes all it seems.
The sun is setting and I am going to stroll the main square again. Once I find dinner that is, my appetite has returned with a vengeance.
Tuesday 17 February 2009
Travel - South American style
Yesterday was a b.e.a.u.t.i.f.u.l day. The weather gods in Cusco decided to play nice and I had one last great day in what is, when the sun shines, a beautiful city. Wandered around, window shopping ... you know, enjoying and soaking up the atmosphere.
This morning it was freezing and raining... Haha. I shivered through breakfast, very pleased that I was heading away. Of course a bit of cloud cover and rain makes for many cancelled LAN flights. Six to Lima alone. Mine was thankfully not one of them, although the airport was packed with those not so fortunate.
Now getting to the airport was an experience, albeit not as fascinating as the ride I just endured. But I digress.
The cab dutifully picked me up on time, although had my flight not been delayed I likely would have missed it. The driver went sooo far out of his way I was beginning to think he was going to DRIVE me to Lima. Set price or no, and considering just how close the airport is to the city centre, it was a grand city tour. Roadside markets, donkeys, churches, crumbling shacks, and more stray dogs than you can shake a stick at.
Pay airport tax, go through security (well, what passed for security) and then into the standing room only departure lounge area. Nice chat with rescheduled tourists from Victoria. Finally we board the plane and are off. I had a window seat (unusual for me) and had a great last view of the green mountains and lush patchwork farming valleys as we climbed into the heavens.
Chocolate cake and orange juice, and a lovely chat with a couple from Los Angeles. Before I could really think twice we were landing at the Lima airport, coming in low over the water, affording a great view of fleets of fishing boats, tankers, beaches, and a city sprawl filling up every visible space until the mountains took over.
Humid. Warm. Wonderful. Took off my fuzzy and rain jacket and smiled. Maybe it was the oxygen rich air or the sea breeze, but I felt much lighter on my feet.
What a change of pace and face. I stopped at Starbucks for tea and a muffin, and after a few minutes I realized that, except for the fact that everyone was speaking Spanish, it felt like I was sitting at Toronto Pearson. Everyones' skin colour had changed. Not an Andean Indian face to be seen. Gone were the high foreheads, forceful chins and prominent noses, a pity really because those faces usually came with a smile. Many too many very serious looking white folk. Tourists not included because they mostly looked confused.
Followed the prompters to gate number 13, and sat to wait for my departure. Some time later they called for boarding for Porto Mondanaldo, a jungle town. Hmmm. Go check the monitors and see that they have changed my departure gate to number 8. I hurry over, and am glad I did because my flight was boarding already. They would have been calling my name over the intercom, which I could not possibly have understood because the spanish and english messages were flying overhead at garbled warp speed.
The approach to Trujillo was startling. Lots of sand, and not much view of anything else. A palm tree or two, some brick walls and barbed wire. My ABSOLUTELY NOT LOST luggage showed up right on time and I headed out into the terminal. Except there wasn't one. Just a big parking lot and no taxis in sight. I rounded up a security guard, used my best ¨lost female¨ look, and the nice gentleman was off and running to find me a ride into the city.
And what a ride. In a car that you probably couldn't give to a teenager back home, I learned that in this town painted lines / lanes, one way streets, and stop signs mean absolutely nothing. As I was reflecting on this I became aware of the fact that the driver was using his emergency brakes as his stopping mechanism. Several very close calls later I put my life into the hands of fate and just held on for the ride. Passed what seemed like endless sand dunes that the driver pointed out as Chan Chan, although I hope that when I actually visit the site it will look more noteworthy.
After trying to get me to change my choice of hostels, he finally pulled up in front of a rather questionable looking building and let me out. Yes, this is the right place. Yes it had been recommended by Lonely Planet. Yes it was getting dark and I had no intention of beginning a search for alternatives. Good thing really, as I am close to the historical main square and once I actually got inside the premises they were much more promising. Lovely inner courtyard / garden and the room is not half bad. Not the Ritz to be sure, but for $18 a night what can you expect?
Did my unpacking and noticed that almost all my bottles and tubes had reacted in a very interesting way to the change in altitude. They all looked like someone tried to squish them. Just the opposite as when I got to Cusco they all looked like someone had blown them up like balloons.
Changed into my sandals and short sleeves.
And that leaves me here, typing away to cyberspace in case someone decides to check in with me.
So I survived my day of travel, and feeling tired and pleasantly warm I am going to head off to find some food, and have an early night.
This morning it was freezing and raining... Haha. I shivered through breakfast, very pleased that I was heading away. Of course a bit of cloud cover and rain makes for many cancelled LAN flights. Six to Lima alone. Mine was thankfully not one of them, although the airport was packed with those not so fortunate.
Now getting to the airport was an experience, albeit not as fascinating as the ride I just endured. But I digress.
The cab dutifully picked me up on time, although had my flight not been delayed I likely would have missed it. The driver went sooo far out of his way I was beginning to think he was going to DRIVE me to Lima. Set price or no, and considering just how close the airport is to the city centre, it was a grand city tour. Roadside markets, donkeys, churches, crumbling shacks, and more stray dogs than you can shake a stick at.
Pay airport tax, go through security (well, what passed for security) and then into the standing room only departure lounge area. Nice chat with rescheduled tourists from Victoria. Finally we board the plane and are off. I had a window seat (unusual for me) and had a great last view of the green mountains and lush patchwork farming valleys as we climbed into the heavens.
Chocolate cake and orange juice, and a lovely chat with a couple from Los Angeles. Before I could really think twice we were landing at the Lima airport, coming in low over the water, affording a great view of fleets of fishing boats, tankers, beaches, and a city sprawl filling up every visible space until the mountains took over.
Humid. Warm. Wonderful. Took off my fuzzy and rain jacket and smiled. Maybe it was the oxygen rich air or the sea breeze, but I felt much lighter on my feet.
What a change of pace and face. I stopped at Starbucks for tea and a muffin, and after a few minutes I realized that, except for the fact that everyone was speaking Spanish, it felt like I was sitting at Toronto Pearson. Everyones' skin colour had changed. Not an Andean Indian face to be seen. Gone were the high foreheads, forceful chins and prominent noses, a pity really because those faces usually came with a smile. Many too many very serious looking white folk. Tourists not included because they mostly looked confused.
Followed the prompters to gate number 13, and sat to wait for my departure. Some time later they called for boarding for Porto Mondanaldo, a jungle town. Hmmm. Go check the monitors and see that they have changed my departure gate to number 8. I hurry over, and am glad I did because my flight was boarding already. They would have been calling my name over the intercom, which I could not possibly have understood because the spanish and english messages were flying overhead at garbled warp speed.
The approach to Trujillo was startling. Lots of sand, and not much view of anything else. A palm tree or two, some brick walls and barbed wire. My ABSOLUTELY NOT LOST luggage showed up right on time and I headed out into the terminal. Except there wasn't one. Just a big parking lot and no taxis in sight. I rounded up a security guard, used my best ¨lost female¨ look, and the nice gentleman was off and running to find me a ride into the city.
And what a ride. In a car that you probably couldn't give to a teenager back home, I learned that in this town painted lines / lanes, one way streets, and stop signs mean absolutely nothing. As I was reflecting on this I became aware of the fact that the driver was using his emergency brakes as his stopping mechanism. Several very close calls later I put my life into the hands of fate and just held on for the ride. Passed what seemed like endless sand dunes that the driver pointed out as Chan Chan, although I hope that when I actually visit the site it will look more noteworthy.
After trying to get me to change my choice of hostels, he finally pulled up in front of a rather questionable looking building and let me out. Yes, this is the right place. Yes it had been recommended by Lonely Planet. Yes it was getting dark and I had no intention of beginning a search for alternatives. Good thing really, as I am close to the historical main square and once I actually got inside the premises they were much more promising. Lovely inner courtyard / garden and the room is not half bad. Not the Ritz to be sure, but for $18 a night what can you expect?
Did my unpacking and noticed that almost all my bottles and tubes had reacted in a very interesting way to the change in altitude. They all looked like someone tried to squish them. Just the opposite as when I got to Cusco they all looked like someone had blown them up like balloons.
Changed into my sandals and short sleeves.
And that leaves me here, typing away to cyberspace in case someone decides to check in with me.
So I survived my day of travel, and feeling tired and pleasantly warm I am going to head off to find some food, and have an early night.
Sunday 15 February 2009
A retreat from the cold... leaving Cusco
Finally!!! I am out of bed and feeling much better.
Festival continues, water abounds... seems not much has changed in the last few days.
I have made arrangements to leave Cusco and head to the coast. I am ready to go, and the doctor thinks it is a good idea to get warm and dry. Today I did a wee bit of shopping. found a nice shawl for mom, and now all I need to do is get it to her. Hopefully before her birthday.
So my plans for the next two days:
Tomorrow, more shopping and a search for Fedex.
Tuesday I fly to Lima and then right back out to Trujillo, a city on the northern coast. I could have taken the bus, but that would have involved tackling the Lima Bus station(s) and then an 8 - 9 hour bus ride. I decided that the $60 plane ticket was a much saner choice.
I am not sure where I am staying yet, but have the names of several good hostels. Then I will arrange to see Chan Chan (another set of ruins) and spend a couple of days on the beach... Who knows? The world is my oyster and all that.
Right now I have reservations to head to Iquitos on Feb23 for a week. I am determined to see snakes and big spiders. If I happen to see toucans and monkeys as well, all the better. Hopefully whatever is left of this mega-cold will have gone away by this time, because I really don`t want to head to the Amazon sick.
Last night we got a bit of a surprise... an earthquake hit about 8pm. Short and sharp. No damage done, but it sure did get everyone talking. I read today that they had a much worse one on the north coast yesterday, but don´t know yet about damages. I am going to have to work on my drop and roll though... just stood there stupidly while my brain tried to compute that the ground was jumping.
That is about it for today. I hear the trumpet sounding to lower the flags in the main square, so must run off and play tourist again.
Hi to mom, and I hope she eats lots more ice cream.
Festival continues, water abounds... seems not much has changed in the last few days.
I have made arrangements to leave Cusco and head to the coast. I am ready to go, and the doctor thinks it is a good idea to get warm and dry. Today I did a wee bit of shopping. found a nice shawl for mom, and now all I need to do is get it to her. Hopefully before her birthday.
So my plans for the next two days:
Tomorrow, more shopping and a search for Fedex.
Tuesday I fly to Lima and then right back out to Trujillo, a city on the northern coast. I could have taken the bus, but that would have involved tackling the Lima Bus station(s) and then an 8 - 9 hour bus ride. I decided that the $60 plane ticket was a much saner choice.
I am not sure where I am staying yet, but have the names of several good hostels. Then I will arrange to see Chan Chan (another set of ruins) and spend a couple of days on the beach... Who knows? The world is my oyster and all that.
Right now I have reservations to head to Iquitos on Feb23 for a week. I am determined to see snakes and big spiders. If I happen to see toucans and monkeys as well, all the better. Hopefully whatever is left of this mega-cold will have gone away by this time, because I really don`t want to head to the Amazon sick.
Last night we got a bit of a surprise... an earthquake hit about 8pm. Short and sharp. No damage done, but it sure did get everyone talking. I read today that they had a much worse one on the north coast yesterday, but don´t know yet about damages. I am going to have to work on my drop and roll though... just stood there stupidly while my brain tried to compute that the ground was jumping.
That is about it for today. I hear the trumpet sounding to lower the flags in the main square, so must run off and play tourist again.
Hi to mom, and I hope she eats lots more ice cream.
Thursday 12 February 2009
Fun and Frackus in Cusco
It is festival time in Cusco.
The locals have a thing about fireworks... they set them off by the dozen all through the day. Fun really, until they go off so close that you think you should dive under a table. Marching bands do the rounds nightly, and the kids are getting their celebrating done too. They are running around with water guns and are not really discriminating about who gets wet. I have been warned about buckets of water flying, which is apparently part of the charm of the festivities, but so far I have been spared.
Believe me, there is enough water coming out of the sky to keep us drenched. Buckets extra not needed.
Yesterday was interesting. Some big demonstration in the main street/plaza. Around a corner come trucks and police in full riot gear bounded out. Crowd dispersed without incident and the police all hopped back into their trucks and roared off. Not something I see every day. Actually not something I have seen before period.
Most of the officers were very handsome... but young, alas.
I have just about nailed down my plans for the next few weeks, and will finalize them and let you know. In a couple of days. That is how many the doctor has sent me back to bed for, with antibiotics. The microbe I thought was done with me decided to come back and bite me on the butt one more time.
So I am off to snooze and be bored.
Totally unrelated: the finger puppet boy has decided he is my new best friend, and whenever I enter the plaza he appears by my side. Cute really.
The locals have a thing about fireworks... they set them off by the dozen all through the day. Fun really, until they go off so close that you think you should dive under a table. Marching bands do the rounds nightly, and the kids are getting their celebrating done too. They are running around with water guns and are not really discriminating about who gets wet. I have been warned about buckets of water flying, which is apparently part of the charm of the festivities, but so far I have been spared.
Believe me, there is enough water coming out of the sky to keep us drenched. Buckets extra not needed.
Yesterday was interesting. Some big demonstration in the main street/plaza. Around a corner come trucks and police in full riot gear bounded out. Crowd dispersed without incident and the police all hopped back into their trucks and roared off. Not something I see every day. Actually not something I have seen before period.
Most of the officers were very handsome... but young, alas.
I have just about nailed down my plans for the next few weeks, and will finalize them and let you know. In a couple of days. That is how many the doctor has sent me back to bed for, with antibiotics. The microbe I thought was done with me decided to come back and bite me on the butt one more time.
So I am off to snooze and be bored.
Totally unrelated: the finger puppet boy has decided he is my new best friend, and whenever I enter the plaza he appears by my side. Cute really.
Wednesday 11 February 2009
Bordom sets in...
I am pretty sure I have had enough of Cusco... about 2 weeks ahead of schedule.
There are only so many quaint, cobbled, hilly streets to walk, and many too many in your face buskers. I went to two museums today. One dedicated to Pre Incan art artifacts, which was interesting... although the english blurbs about each piece were WAY over the top. Then there was the "archbishops art collection". Should have known to skip that one, but alas I subjected myself to more gold filigree and images of the Inca being enlightened into the catholic church.
Yuck
Apart from that there has been spanish lessons and searches for interesting tours to join. Still not sure about the time/place of an amazon visit. The campus in the sacred valley is open again, although my enthusiasm is waning. We´ll see.
Lots of rain, a bit of sun, and what seems like (sometimes) a hundred partying twenty-somethings all around me.
Tomorrow I think I´ll brave the market for some strawberry jam to go with my bread in the morning.
Lunch time, and then classes. Feels like time to move on...
There are only so many quaint, cobbled, hilly streets to walk, and many too many in your face buskers. I went to two museums today. One dedicated to Pre Incan art artifacts, which was interesting... although the english blurbs about each piece were WAY over the top. Then there was the "archbishops art collection". Should have known to skip that one, but alas I subjected myself to more gold filigree and images of the Inca being enlightened into the catholic church.
Yuck
Apart from that there has been spanish lessons and searches for interesting tours to join. Still not sure about the time/place of an amazon visit. The campus in the sacred valley is open again, although my enthusiasm is waning. We´ll see.
Lots of rain, a bit of sun, and what seems like (sometimes) a hundred partying twenty-somethings all around me.
Tomorrow I think I´ll brave the market for some strawberry jam to go with my bread in the morning.
Lunch time, and then classes. Feels like time to move on...
Sunday 8 February 2009
Flags and Sardines... Pisac
It is Sunday and I think I am finally on the other side of whatever little microbe made its way into my system. I am still coughing, and my voice is a as wobbly as an adolescent boy, but I am much better. Unfortunately I missed most of my spanish classes during the week, so will do a restart tomorrow.
Yesterday I took a chance on a salad. A big green lettuce and roasted veggies wonder. Hope the tummy gods will look kindly upon me, but I did not think I could go another day without fresh vegetables, despite the warnings. So far so good.
Today I went to a town called Pisaq with a few of the ¨kids¨from school. I was impressed. There were the expected ruins, and once again, stairs, stairs, stairs. My legs managed just fine. Didn't take me terribly long to realize my lungs weren't so understanding. I was quite glad that this town is located at a much lower elevation than Cusco.
Huffing and puffing along I kept going. The ruins at Pisaq had quite a different look to them (stairs notwithstanding), with most of the rock used in the walls of the upper fortress being red, and lots of red mud to hold them together. Once again I was amazed at the extent of what used to be their mountain agriculture. Terraces and canal systems that now lie fallow. Food would be far more plentiful if they were put back to work.
We took a taxi up to the ruins, and decided to meander around on our own and not get a guide. Plenty of choices turn wise, and having a guide might have spared us a bad choice or two. We ended up scrambling down the terraces bordering town and I am sure there was an easier and shorter option.
Had a brief gander at the big market in town everyone talks about, but it just seemed to offer the same old, same old. I was hoping that I would be able to find more unique and handmade items, but alas, I came home empty handed. (my wallet says thanks).
Grabbed a bite to eat at a place that had a huge guinea pig fortress as it's focal point. Interesting.
We used the public bus to get to Pisac and back, and it was quite an experience. Getting there was not a huge adventure, but coming back Pisac is just a stop on a longer route and each and every bus was packed. Or so we thought. When each bus stopped we watched a mass of people appear, seemingly out of the blue, and shove themselves into the bus. Most of the buses left with people still hanging out the open door.
Not something 4 touristy types were quite prepared for, but we gave it our best shot. The first 3 attempts were laughable, with the locals easily tossing us out of the way. Fine. We would wait for perhaps a less crowded bus that might come along? So we stand at the side of the road, in the middle of a market (noise, dirt, general chaos), and then on cue the skies open up and it starts pouring. Deluge pouring. Now the day so far had been sunscreen and hats required. Hot. Very hot. Wish we had a swimming pool hot. So we were rather surprised to find ourselves soaked to the skin, still waiting for a bus.
When that next bus came around the corner, we made sure we were at the front of the line (my apologies to those that got in our way...). We still had to stand the entire hour long ride, but we were in the bus and on our way. A bus packed like... yes, sardines. Mostly wet sadines. I did have a good view out the windows, so I got to enjoy the incredible scenery along the way. Not necessarily when the top heavy bus was taking hairpin curves up the cliff side of the mountains, but I tried not to dwell on that.
With a deep sigh of relief we filed off the bus and walked back to the main square in Cusco. I made straight for my little perch on a very skinny second floor balcony at the pub overlooking the square, so I could have a small bite to eat while watching all the goings on. Spent a bit of time contemplating the mass of tourists wandering around, and wondered what the locals must think of us all. Taking the same pictures, asking the same questions, over and over. An anthill of frenetic activity with no productive purpose. Then I snapped out of my stupor and joined the masses watching the daily spectacle of soldiers lowering the flag at sunset.
Ah well, I am a tourist, no?
I am now going to haul my cough and exhaustion up the hill to my residence, have a nice cup of tea and then dive into my bed.
Thursday 5 February 2009
Pass the kleenex please...
The sneezies have found me. I spent yesterday in bed, and plan on doing the same today. Hope I will feel up to heading off to cooking class tonight, but I have my doubts.
Either way I wanted to check in and let you know I am ok, although I probably won´t have much to post for the next couple of days.
.... bye the way, the finger puppet boy finally wore me down. Amy, guess what you are getting as a present?
Either way I wanted to check in and let you know I am ok, although I probably won´t have much to post for the next couple of days.
.... bye the way, the finger puppet boy finally wore me down. Amy, guess what you are getting as a present?
Monday 2 February 2009
Choose wisely... a crappy tour guide in Cusco
Today I got my first full day of Spanish classes, and my head is spinning with the multitude of new vocabulary I am supposed to memorize tonight. I can hardly think straight, but what I can remember is that I have no memory...
They take their Spanish immersion seriously here at Amauta, so I find myself stammering along while I try to communicate. A dictionary slows the process down substantially.
It is cold here when the sun is not shining. I sit happily in this heated internet cafe, as my room at the casa is freezing. The classes are also held in unheated rooms so this is the first chance at warm I have had all day. It has been cloudy and rainy since this morning.
Yesterday was totally different. There are no classes on the weekends, so a new student and I contracted a day long hike to two local sights, Moray and the Salt Flats.
The first clue that things were not going to go as promised was when our tour guide showed up to pick us up - without a vehicle. Many blocks later, he found us a cab to take us to the starting point of our hike. What he said was a one hour hike to Moray was two, and he couldn't be bothered to tour Moray with us. Moray is an archaeological site consisting of four "rings" of terraces believed to be an experimental area where the climate for growing crops changes as you go up and down.
Our "guide" stayed parked in the shade by the entrance while Ann and I made our way down the terraces to explore. We met a lovely lady named June who, along with her husband, was in the process of writing a book about the ruins and their history. They have already written a well received guide book about Manchu Picchu apparently. Moray is an incredible place, and standing in the centre of the lowest circle we could hear ourselves as though we were talking through speakers. When we finally managed to crawl (really) up and out of the terraces our "guide" had arranged for a ride to the salt flats trail. When the person doing the driving demanded more money, and we would not give it, we got dumped off for an extra hour or so of walking.
Now it wouldn't have really been a big deal, except we had run out of water and there was no food. Perfect. And of course it was the first full day of hot sun I have had here. Two and a half hours later we straggled into a cute little town in the middle of a fiesta and then went to the side of the road to flag down a car to the bus station. This after we skirted around the salt flats, after politely being asked to leave as the "guide" decided going inside was a waste of time and money.
Whatever. It looked interesting. The pools of different coloured waters being dried in the sun to collect the natural salts left behind. Ancient apparently, and still in use today.
It was a long ride home with a crazy driver, because once again our intrepid guide had flagged down a car to return us to Cusco, rather than pay for a bus. I arrived dehydrated and hungry. Not a happy camper. I am still feeling less than stellar, thirsty, and quite honestly, snarky.
So, lesson learned... choose carefully.
I am going to have to rearrange my schedule a bit, because the tours to the Manu Biosphere Reserved Zone have apparently evaporated with the summer rains. I am looking into heading to Iquitos in the north east of the country, where a bit of rain (understatement) will not close down the Jungle to tourists.
I am off for a hot bowl of soup and to do my "homework".
They take their Spanish immersion seriously here at Amauta, so I find myself stammering along while I try to communicate. A dictionary slows the process down substantially.
It is cold here when the sun is not shining. I sit happily in this heated internet cafe, as my room at the casa is freezing. The classes are also held in unheated rooms so this is the first chance at warm I have had all day. It has been cloudy and rainy since this morning.
Yesterday was totally different. There are no classes on the weekends, so a new student and I contracted a day long hike to two local sights, Moray and the Salt Flats.
The first clue that things were not going to go as promised was when our tour guide showed up to pick us up - without a vehicle. Many blocks later, he found us a cab to take us to the starting point of our hike. What he said was a one hour hike to Moray was two, and he couldn't be bothered to tour Moray with us. Moray is an archaeological site consisting of four "rings" of terraces believed to be an experimental area where the climate for growing crops changes as you go up and down.
Our "guide" stayed parked in the shade by the entrance while Ann and I made our way down the terraces to explore. We met a lovely lady named June who, along with her husband, was in the process of writing a book about the ruins and their history. They have already written a well received guide book about Manchu Picchu apparently. Moray is an incredible place, and standing in the centre of the lowest circle we could hear ourselves as though we were talking through speakers. When we finally managed to crawl (really) up and out of the terraces our "guide" had arranged for a ride to the salt flats trail. When the person doing the driving demanded more money, and we would not give it, we got dumped off for an extra hour or so of walking.
Now it wouldn't have really been a big deal, except we had run out of water and there was no food. Perfect. And of course it was the first full day of hot sun I have had here. Two and a half hours later we straggled into a cute little town in the middle of a fiesta and then went to the side of the road to flag down a car to the bus station. This after we skirted around the salt flats, after politely being asked to leave as the "guide" decided going inside was a waste of time and money.
Whatever. It looked interesting. The pools of different coloured waters being dried in the sun to collect the natural salts left behind. Ancient apparently, and still in use today.
It was a long ride home with a crazy driver, because once again our intrepid guide had flagged down a car to return us to Cusco, rather than pay for a bus. I arrived dehydrated and hungry. Not a happy camper. I am still feeling less than stellar, thirsty, and quite honestly, snarky.
So, lesson learned... choose carefully.
I am going to have to rearrange my schedule a bit, because the tours to the Manu Biosphere Reserved Zone have apparently evaporated with the summer rains. I am looking into heading to Iquitos in the north east of the country, where a bit of rain (understatement) will not close down the Jungle to tourists.
I am off for a hot bowl of soup and to do my "homework".
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