Adobe dreams... Chan Chan

Last night, after throwing the towel in on my quest for real food, I settled for stale white cake and questionable pineapple juice from a street vendor.  I figured that since I am already taking antibiotics the bugs won't make me sick.  So far so good.

After this incredibly nutritious supper I wandered over to the main square, beautifully lit at night, and was delighted to discover that there were a variety of dancers putting on performances. Something tribal, something colonial and a wonderful couple doing the local dance, the marinara.  Think tango, but with hankies waving and a very large hat used to great effect by el senior.  I was enchanted.

I was the only gringo around.  Obviously.  I was the only adult female not wearing skin tight clothes and high heeled mules. Can't see giving that look a try so I will leave it to the locals.

Hit a hotel for breakfast this morning... pancakes!

Fun facts:

There are some 12,000 taxis in this little city. (I am pretty sure that each and every one of them has already had a go at running me down)

It only rains here once every few years... when el niño comes calling. This was supposed to be the year, but only a sprinkle or two so far. They are thankful because it usually comes with devastating floods and damage.

My Guide´s name is Marisa, she speaks really good english, and she dances. Quelle coincidence!  Just like my neice.

My outfit for the day: Socks, sandals, long pants, a large buttoned up, long sleeved shirt and sunhat. I want no trouble from the sunburn gods, given that the meds. came with a warning that they make skin extra sun sensitive.  I look really, really silly.

Then it was time to tour. Our group piled into an ancient van ("the bus") and headed out of the city.  We went through a flourishing farming community.  Corn, sugarcane, tomatoes, peppers... our tour guide informed us that this area is the largest Asparagus and Artichoke producing area in the country and exports all over the world.  Cool. This is the desert, but they use an aqueduct system that channels water runoff from the mountains, and then divert it to the various fields. This practice has apparently been used successfully for more than 2000 years.  Mostly with the same canals.

We also passed many brick making yards.  Still using old fashioned back breaking labour, the drying bricks sit out in the sun in many, many tidy rows.  So glad I don't know firsthand how that kind of labour feels.

We started our official tour with the Moche temples of the Sun and Moon.  Very Cool.  They apparently worshiped the god of the mountains, and the coloured 3-D wall decorations that have been uncovered depict various deities, animals and decapitations.  They have uncovered some of the 4 out of 5 temples of the Moon that were built one on top of each other.  When one king died, they filled in the temples and built a new one on top of the remains. This is also true of the temple of the Sun, although they have done no excavations. (or so I think)

These temples are located on high ground, abutting a mountain, and from this vantage point I am reminded of the Sinai.  No pink in the mountains though, there are black mountains and beige sand. Looking over towards the sea there is a large area that is green and cultivated sitting in the middle of this desert.  Think large kibbutz in the middle of nowhere.

We return to the hotel for lunch (jam sandwiches / leftovers from breakfast) and I have a nap.

My p.m. includes a smaller temple, the site museum for Chan Chan and the ruins of Chan Chan themselves.  I will skip describing the first two, as they were fairly unremarkable.

Chan Chan on the other hand did not disappoint.   Wow.  Adobe design work, walls nine steps thick, 11 compounds, outer defensive walls that are 14 meters high with just one small entrance. Only one compound was open for viewing, the rest are waiting for exploration.  Each time a new king came around they built a new compound/temple. Right in the middle is a natural spring fed aqueduct.  The estimate is that there were 35,000 people living in the area during this period.  Hope my pictures turn out well, because, like a good dream, there was too much to take in and remember.

We then went to a small beach town to see the reed boats used by the local fishermen.  A wee letdown after the splendor of the ruins, but the surf was lovely and the water a much lighter colour than I expected of the Pacific.  And I saw the cutest puppy...

Speaking of dogs, (were we?) they have THE coolest dogs here at the archaeological sights... Hairless peruvian dogs.   They are so ugly they are beautiful.  They are a nationally protected species because their numbers are dwindling, and they have proof they have been around as a breed for more than 2000 years. (I am totally fascinated).
 Uncomfortable ride back in rickety old bus.  Rain clouds over the distant mountains spell good fortune for the crops. Vegetable omelet for dinner. :)

Mañana is yet more ruins. I will probably subject you to all the details.