The flight from Lima was an overnight haul that had the jet lag monster rearing its ugly head, despite the lack of time zone change. Then came two days of walking around in the twilight zone of combined disoriented tiredness and culture shock.
Times two. I picked my Amy up from the airport after her three month stint in a small native reserve in Northern Ontario, so she is going through her own version of culture shock.
The traffic and highways.
The malls.
The dizzying array of goods at Shoppers Drug Mart. That one was funny... we walked through the doors, stopped dead in our tracks, said "woh" in unison and turned to look at each other with faces reflecting horror.
Serious culture shock. It is now Friday and we spent yet another day sniping at one another as we tried to spend time together. Add on the "pressure" of all I want to do in my short time in TO, and I feel like hiding.
And it turned cold today. (well for me anyway... for Amy it was balmy) There I am huddled against the wind FREEZING, and all I could think about was wanting to be back in my hammock in the shade.
Replaced my hiking boots today. Yay.
Found out that someone hijacked my Visa card while I was away... many $ in gas charges. Fun.
I seem incapable of in depth thought at the moment, so will end this post before I ramble on, and on, and on, and on...
Cheers.
Thursday 25 March 2010
Sunday 21 March 2010
The long journey home.
Lima is pretty much as I remember it... hot, dirty, loud and confusing. I have been staying at a lovely family residence this time, and have the company of Consuelo and Raul from Santiago.
Sunny hours of walking around, chatting and shopping. The view from the cliffs has not changed, but I certainly have.
How odd it felt to stand in the Tarapoto airport lounge, looking out on the hillside view I remembered distinctly from my arrival 2 months earlier, and watching the arriving passengers take the same photos I had. The effort needed to reach in and extract the memory (in the visual, ethereal and experiential sense) was quite extraordinary however. It seemed a lifetime ago.
I know that when I return to Courtenay I will slip back into the good life I have built. But right then, spirit free, I could envision the possibilities in staying... or those of moving on as life would direct me.
Reality intrudes with painful tummy cramps, my lot for the past week. It is not only my plane ticket reminding me it is time to come home.
Toronto on tuesday, Kelowna the 31st, Vacouver the 3rd and BC ferry bound on the 7th or 8th. Or that`s what my tickets say. We plan, G-d laughs.
Sunny hours of walking around, chatting and shopping. The view from the cliffs has not changed, but I certainly have.
How odd it felt to stand in the Tarapoto airport lounge, looking out on the hillside view I remembered distinctly from my arrival 2 months earlier, and watching the arriving passengers take the same photos I had. The effort needed to reach in and extract the memory (in the visual, ethereal and experiential sense) was quite extraordinary however. It seemed a lifetime ago.
I know that when I return to Courtenay I will slip back into the good life I have built. But right then, spirit free, I could envision the possibilities in staying... or those of moving on as life would direct me.
Reality intrudes with painful tummy cramps, my lot for the past week. It is not only my plane ticket reminding me it is time to come home.
Toronto on tuesday, Kelowna the 31st, Vacouver the 3rd and BC ferry bound on the 7th or 8th. Or that`s what my tickets say. We plan, G-d laughs.
Tuesday 16 March 2010
An uneasy calm
This morning was to be market day with Millie. Our destination "market 2" was not someplace I had ventured far into on my own... it looked confusing and a likely place to loose my wallet. Getting to watch a local in action was an experience I was looking forward to. On our approach we noticed police roadblocks which had Millie calling our little adventure off, explaining that this likely meant there would be trouble. The city has apparently decreed that this market is to be moved into a newly built facility, much to the ire of the merchants and hawkers. Drat.
This afternoon occasioned me in the same neighborhood, to pick up my newly re-repaired sandals. Curious, and noting that there looked like no immediate likelihood of danger, I wandered in. The place certainly held a bit of the chaotic flair common to markets, but many of the stalls were unoccupied. I`m guessing that there were those who expected trouble and packed up and went home.
The roadblocks were amply manned by burly, serious looking police. Some held clubs but side arms were thankfully holstered and there were no rifles in sight. Groups of police were pocketed around the perimeter of this sprawling multi-block squared expanse. Large trucks were being allowed to do their work, taking down signage and digging up areas of road on the periphery.
There is a determined expectancy hanging in the air. Large piles of rocks dot the market, placed within easy reach, the main outward sign that there will be resistance to this forced move. In a rather eloquent statement of defiance there is a group of older men out on the street with tape measures, chalk and white paint, and they are busy outlining sidewalks in what I guess to be an effort to give a more permanent and civilized look to the market.
It is plain that there is a confrontation in the making, but there is no explosive nature to the air. Doesn`t look like it is going to be pretty when it happens though. I of course had left my camera in the hostal, not wanting to tempt fate... and thus have lost the opportunity to add a visual element to my observations.
Sigh.
This afternoon occasioned me in the same neighborhood, to pick up my newly re-repaired sandals. Curious, and noting that there looked like no immediate likelihood of danger, I wandered in. The place certainly held a bit of the chaotic flair common to markets, but many of the stalls were unoccupied. I`m guessing that there were those who expected trouble and packed up and went home.
The roadblocks were amply manned by burly, serious looking police. Some held clubs but side arms were thankfully holstered and there were no rifles in sight. Groups of police were pocketed around the perimeter of this sprawling multi-block squared expanse. Large trucks were being allowed to do their work, taking down signage and digging up areas of road on the periphery.
There is a determined expectancy hanging in the air. Large piles of rocks dot the market, placed within easy reach, the main outward sign that there will be resistance to this forced move. In a rather eloquent statement of defiance there is a group of older men out on the street with tape measures, chalk and white paint, and they are busy outlining sidewalks in what I guess to be an effort to give a more permanent and civilized look to the market.
It is plain that there is a confrontation in the making, but there is no explosive nature to the air. Doesn`t look like it is going to be pretty when it happens though. I of course had left my camera in the hostal, not wanting to tempt fate... and thus have lost the opportunity to add a visual element to my observations.
Sigh.
Finally... more photos
A quiet few days, spent visiting and shopping. My sandals decided to pack it in yesterday, so off I went on a futile search for a good pair of workhorse sandals. So I am the new owner of a pair of dainty little sandals, and my old ones are in for yet another fix... Would be nice to get in at least one more good hike before I leave on Friday.
Yes I have finally picked the exit date which allows me 3 days in Lima to see a museum or two, meet up with a couple of nice folks and shop. Then it will be on to TO on Tuesday. Too bad I don`t have my BOOTS. It will be a cold tootsie first day. Don`t have a winter coat either, come to think of it.
And now, for your viewing pleasure...
This photo on the right shows the main outer wall of the Kuelep fortress near Chachapoyas. This place is billed as the "Manchu Picchu" of northern Peru.
Below is a sample of the intricate stonework found in the Kuelep ruins.
Traversing the landslide area near Gocta Falls...
The funeral Karajia in the cliffs about an hour from Chachapoyas
Taking a break at the base of the cliff face, hiding from the intense sun.
Farming the old fashioned way.
The ghoulish sight of skulls rising from the mud in a cave used for religious and sacrificial ceremonies.
Yes I have finally picked the exit date which allows me 3 days in Lima to see a museum or two, meet up with a couple of nice folks and shop. Then it will be on to TO on Tuesday. Too bad I don`t have my BOOTS. It will be a cold tootsie first day. Don`t have a winter coat either, come to think of it.
And now, for your viewing pleasure...
This photo on the right shows the main outer wall of the Kuelep fortress near Chachapoyas. This place is billed as the "Manchu Picchu" of northern Peru.Below is a sample of the intricate stonework found in the Kuelep ruins.
Traversing the landslide area near Gocta Falls...
The funeral Karajia in the cliffs about an hour from Chachapoyas
Taking a break at the base of the cliff face, hiding from the intense sun.
Farming the old fashioned way.
The ghoulish sight of skulls rising from the mud in a cave used for religious and sacrificial ceremonies.
And my usual finish, a flower. This orchid was seen on the trail to Gocta Waterfall.
Saturday 13 March 2010
My boots... The End.
Awoke this morning to pouring rain... so of course I went for a walk. Rain poncho, boots & gators as I once again headed "up river". I thought I would try and find the trail to the big falls, that would be the one with the 15 river crossings.
I managed to find the path through the first 4 crossings... then ??? By this time the rain had stopped, and I was still looking to expend some energy so I took off my boots and poncho and headed upriver boulder hopping. About an hour later I made it to this wonderful area of the river perfect for swimming. So I did. And then I carried on, but at some point I felt it was time to turn around. So I did.
Then I got it into my head that I wanted to follow the river all the way to the road. So I did. Well, almost to the road... 3 hours of hopping, wading, swimming, balancing, falling and bouldering had me ending my adventure at the water station, which is close enough to the road to count.
My rules:
1. keep feet on stone (really big icky river ticks in the sand),
2. stay off the riverbanks (especially the jungle vegetation areas... no need to tempt the snakes)
3. make sure there is a reverse option to all choices (waterfalls & boulders)
4. Oh, and try and avoid the creepy spiders all over the stones.
It was a challenge keeping to the rules at certain points. And there was thought spared for leeches and water snakes. At about the 2 1/2 hour mark I came to a very challenging waterfall, enormous boulders, very fast water. I scoured for all the angles and there really was only one sensible option. Return. So with fingers and toes seeking hold I slid my way gingerly down to the "plop point". Breaking badly rule number 3, cause there was no going back after that one.
Feet raw, and boots soaked (see plop above), another swim and small cascade, then my tired old bod said Yay! when the water station came into sight. Boulder hop, balance on tree bridge, cross water station dam. Soggy boots on, my sunburn, soaked clothes and I headed the rest of the way down the road. Six hours total. :)
Stopped in at Millies to pick up my pack, wring out my stuff and took a motocar back to the hostal. And left my boots on the seat when I hopped out.
Linda`s Boots... The Inglorious End.
Unless the motocar guy brings them back, but I am not holding my breath.
River sightings:
pretty fantastic butterflies MANY
frogs of a rainbow of colours MANY
spiders WAY TOO MANY
Birds NOT ENOUGH
people NONE
I am taking my tired feet to bed.
PS. After I got to Millies she said "I forgot to warn you to stay away from the rivers because after a heavy rain there are often flash floods, and each year people drown". :x
I managed to find the path through the first 4 crossings... then ??? By this time the rain had stopped, and I was still looking to expend some energy so I took off my boots and poncho and headed upriver boulder hopping. About an hour later I made it to this wonderful area of the river perfect for swimming. So I did. And then I carried on, but at some point I felt it was time to turn around. So I did.
Then I got it into my head that I wanted to follow the river all the way to the road. So I did. Well, almost to the road... 3 hours of hopping, wading, swimming, balancing, falling and bouldering had me ending my adventure at the water station, which is close enough to the road to count.
My rules:
1. keep feet on stone (really big icky river ticks in the sand),
2. stay off the riverbanks (especially the jungle vegetation areas... no need to tempt the snakes)
3. make sure there is a reverse option to all choices (waterfalls & boulders)
4. Oh, and try and avoid the creepy spiders all over the stones.
It was a challenge keeping to the rules at certain points. And there was thought spared for leeches and water snakes. At about the 2 1/2 hour mark I came to a very challenging waterfall, enormous boulders, very fast water. I scoured for all the angles and there really was only one sensible option. Return. So with fingers and toes seeking hold I slid my way gingerly down to the "plop point". Breaking badly rule number 3, cause there was no going back after that one.
Feet raw, and boots soaked (see plop above), another swim and small cascade, then my tired old bod said Yay! when the water station came into sight. Boulder hop, balance on tree bridge, cross water station dam. Soggy boots on, my sunburn, soaked clothes and I headed the rest of the way down the road. Six hours total. :)
Stopped in at Millies to pick up my pack, wring out my stuff and took a motocar back to the hostal. And left my boots on the seat when I hopped out.
Linda`s Boots... The Inglorious End.
Unless the motocar guy brings them back, but I am not holding my breath.
River sightings:
pretty fantastic butterflies MANY
frogs of a rainbow of colours MANY
spiders WAY TOO MANY
Birds NOT ENOUGH
people NONE
I am taking my tired feet to bed.
PS. After I got to Millies she said "I forgot to warn you to stay away from the rivers because after a heavy rain there are often flash floods, and each year people drown". :x
Friday 12 March 2010
Time well wasted
So another Friday has come around with me making no real decision about plans for heading out of town. This pretty much makes Arequipa a no-go, but does signal possible salsa and cooking lessons, and a visit to a bee keeper & nature preserve.
:)
I have names & invites in Lima, so I will plan a couple of days there before heading to Toronto in a little over a week. Shopping, museums, markets, coffees on the patio...
Time has flown.
When I last checked in I was headed inland for a few days, and that was, well, OK. Not quite the way I had understood it to be, but experiences were had.
We started with a trip back to Sauce. Now having been officially declared "family", I got to ride in the back bed of the truck while the "tourists" rode in the Cab. What a hoot. The sun burning down and wind blowing. There was a couple of 3" foam matresses put down to ease the ride, but let me tell you, once we hit the rutted dirt road there was no getting away from the bumps and buffets... Or going air bound. I am now a proponent of repealing the highway traffic law prohibiting such fun.
Spent a relaxing few hours on the lake, while the clouds rolled in overhead, had a not so terrible lunch and then it was back onto the truck for our trekking point drop off. Now seems as good a time as any to mention the extreme change in temperatures here when the cloud shade rolls in. A welcome relief.
But then... Cue the torrential rains. We hastily uncover and try to install a heavy tarp covering... installation failed, so we all held on to our corners to keep it down as we covered the distance on increasingly slippery roads. We climbed out at our exit point, donned heavy ponchos over our packs and headed off to skate our way to the hot springs. I say skate because walking on the thick red mud is very much like trying to navigate an icy sidewalk. Step carefully. Balance correctly. Expect to slide often. Be prepared to adjust balance quickly.
Our eventual destination was an area of natural thermal waters, compliments of a sleepy volcano in the Sauce area. I could smell them long before I could see them, and as I am rather sulphur sensitive I suppose stopping here would have been a good idea. We walked on and I found myself in one of the most bizarre landscapes I can remember. Flowing black rock down the gullies of the hillside. Dead zones in the midst of lush greenery. Tres cool.
I did a dip in the pools, with a quick rinse off. Healing properties and all that. We were joined by a couple of american guys I had previously met through Cindy, and we had a nice evening. Slept in fairy bug ridden beds, and I expected to move on at this point. The boys had a different plan for the morning, which involved sulpher & grit enemas, as it turned out. This actually morphed into an almost full day activity.
Cindy and I hung out on hammocks in a breeze, which was welcome because of the heat and mosquitoes. I watched warrior ants take each other on, and wondered at the fact there was life adapted to the lava. I became increasingly ill the longer I stayed and when we finally left to gather horses and head up the mountain I had to beg off. After discussion we all ended up sleeping at a hostel in Sauce because the heavy rains had returned and it was getting too late to make a daylight trek.
The new plan was to get up VERY early to do a one day trek and make it back to Tarapoto that night. Out come the cards and we play while the group decides to get extremely high. The night drags on and results in a 10:00 am wake up. The rest of the group decided to extend the trip another day and sleep up the mountain, but because I had to be back in town for an appointment, that left me with a 5 hour trek in approximately 7 hours of daylight. In the rain and mud. I passed and headed back to town.
Another time.
So the ride back was accomplished in a shared taxi driving on muddy roads that were so slick that the comparison to 12" of snow in a toronto winter applies. I have photos of the main streets of Sauce that just don´t do the mud justice. Ruts and bogs 2 feet deep, no solid surface to navigate. Cars doing the sideways slide as they try to find traction of some kind. Just thick road soup. Another new experience.
Back to the hostal, and hello´s & cheek buses abound. I pass messages on, and head to my room for a badly needed shower. Much road dust and tropical sweat.
A stroll to the shiclayo area of town has me entertained by a troupe of about a dozen small marmoset like monkeys... At first I thought they were squirrels, but no, definitely monkeys... long tail, fingers, cool little faces and their fun chatter. They ran along power lines and jumped from tree to bush to tree. Very cute, and a lovely end to a long day.
Yesterday a lovely lunchtime visit at Millies turned into pretty much a full day affair. Millie often does outdoor catering, and a canadian film crew has settled in for their meals for the duration of their filming of a documentary on tropical medicine. Holas, intros, food and an evening on the town, loud music and dancing included. Not sure if it was the ice in the drinking water or the very strong local brew but my tummy decided to play another round of Montezumas revenge... called La biciclet here.
Well cleaned out, I am having another entertaining day around town and visiting with friends.
I will boast to you that my abilities and ëlan regarding the hailing of motocars has been almost perfected. :)
Yes, it is a valuable and transferable skill that I have gained while here for the past couple of months.
Time well wasted.
:)
I have names & invites in Lima, so I will plan a couple of days there before heading to Toronto in a little over a week. Shopping, museums, markets, coffees on the patio...
Time has flown.
When I last checked in I was headed inland for a few days, and that was, well, OK. Not quite the way I had understood it to be, but experiences were had.
We started with a trip back to Sauce. Now having been officially declared "family", I got to ride in the back bed of the truck while the "tourists" rode in the Cab. What a hoot. The sun burning down and wind blowing. There was a couple of 3" foam matresses put down to ease the ride, but let me tell you, once we hit the rutted dirt road there was no getting away from the bumps and buffets... Or going air bound. I am now a proponent of repealing the highway traffic law prohibiting such fun.
Spent a relaxing few hours on the lake, while the clouds rolled in overhead, had a not so terrible lunch and then it was back onto the truck for our trekking point drop off. Now seems as good a time as any to mention the extreme change in temperatures here when the cloud shade rolls in. A welcome relief.
But then... Cue the torrential rains. We hastily uncover and try to install a heavy tarp covering... installation failed, so we all held on to our corners to keep it down as we covered the distance on increasingly slippery roads. We climbed out at our exit point, donned heavy ponchos over our packs and headed off to skate our way to the hot springs. I say skate because walking on the thick red mud is very much like trying to navigate an icy sidewalk. Step carefully. Balance correctly. Expect to slide often. Be prepared to adjust balance quickly.
Our eventual destination was an area of natural thermal waters, compliments of a sleepy volcano in the Sauce area. I could smell them long before I could see them, and as I am rather sulphur sensitive I suppose stopping here would have been a good idea. We walked on and I found myself in one of the most bizarre landscapes I can remember. Flowing black rock down the gullies of the hillside. Dead zones in the midst of lush greenery. Tres cool.
I did a dip in the pools, with a quick rinse off. Healing properties and all that. We were joined by a couple of american guys I had previously met through Cindy, and we had a nice evening. Slept in fairy bug ridden beds, and I expected to move on at this point. The boys had a different plan for the morning, which involved sulpher & grit enemas, as it turned out. This actually morphed into an almost full day activity.
Cindy and I hung out on hammocks in a breeze, which was welcome because of the heat and mosquitoes. I watched warrior ants take each other on, and wondered at the fact there was life adapted to the lava. I became increasingly ill the longer I stayed and when we finally left to gather horses and head up the mountain I had to beg off. After discussion we all ended up sleeping at a hostel in Sauce because the heavy rains had returned and it was getting too late to make a daylight trek.
The new plan was to get up VERY early to do a one day trek and make it back to Tarapoto that night. Out come the cards and we play while the group decides to get extremely high. The night drags on and results in a 10:00 am wake up. The rest of the group decided to extend the trip another day and sleep up the mountain, but because I had to be back in town for an appointment, that left me with a 5 hour trek in approximately 7 hours of daylight. In the rain and mud. I passed and headed back to town.
Another time.
So the ride back was accomplished in a shared taxi driving on muddy roads that were so slick that the comparison to 12" of snow in a toronto winter applies. I have photos of the main streets of Sauce that just don´t do the mud justice. Ruts and bogs 2 feet deep, no solid surface to navigate. Cars doing the sideways slide as they try to find traction of some kind. Just thick road soup. Another new experience.
Back to the hostal, and hello´s & cheek buses abound. I pass messages on, and head to my room for a badly needed shower. Much road dust and tropical sweat.
A stroll to the shiclayo area of town has me entertained by a troupe of about a dozen small marmoset like monkeys... At first I thought they were squirrels, but no, definitely monkeys... long tail, fingers, cool little faces and their fun chatter. They ran along power lines and jumped from tree to bush to tree. Very cute, and a lovely end to a long day.
Yesterday a lovely lunchtime visit at Millies turned into pretty much a full day affair. Millie often does outdoor catering, and a canadian film crew has settled in for their meals for the duration of their filming of a documentary on tropical medicine. Holas, intros, food and an evening on the town, loud music and dancing included. Not sure if it was the ice in the drinking water or the very strong local brew but my tummy decided to play another round of Montezumas revenge... called La biciclet here.
Well cleaned out, I am having another entertaining day around town and visiting with friends.
I will boast to you that my abilities and ëlan regarding the hailing of motocars has been almost perfected. :)
Yes, it is a valuable and transferable skill that I have gained while here for the past couple of months.
Time well wasted.
Tuesday 9 March 2010
Away for a few days
Just a quick note that I am headed inland for a few days...
This means you have some relief from my seeming unending compulsion to regale you will millions of details daily.
Be safe.
:)
This means you have some relief from my seeming unending compulsion to regale you will millions of details daily.
Be safe.
:)
Sunday 7 March 2010
Such interesting people
It is fascinating the variety of people you meet when traveling. I spent part of the day yesterday having coffee and conversation with an older man from Germany and a much younger Texan. The former was a dreamer, schemer and /or visionary... but not much in the way of actual application skills. The Texan was looking to start a business, fast money, not quite a redneck... but had some very hard to swallow ideas about race and sexual orientation, among others.
Very good examples of why having just a little information can be dangerous.
After breakfast this morning I got chatting with a couple of businessmen from Lima, friends of Cindys` dad, and was promptly invited to join in on a planned trip to a small village nearby. We all pile into truck... 4 fully latin men, a french expat and me... sole Canadian and sole estrogen based unit.
Got to tell you, it was quite a ride. Great bunch of guys, but guys nonetheless and it was interesting. I was quite looking forward to observing them in action for the day... however after a short walk and easy river crossing we ended up at the riverside house of a friend, with many male & female friends in residence. Robbed of the chance for very interesting blog material.
I had met several of the people there in my time in Tarapoto, but it was neat to see them all in one place... very hippy like in attire and manner, but young. They were all there to celebrate the housewarming of this lovely open air jungle abode. Bio friendly with composting toilet and spring fed water.
I talked to a couple of young entrepreneurs who harvest / distribute various superfoods through their company based in Oregon. They were not just friends but also business associates with the owner of this new property, who himself is in the process of setting up a company to export pure sacha inchic butter. Using fair trade harvest from the local indigenous people, he hopes to encourage the end of clearing of forests in the area. Sitting with an interesting group of young people, setting their lives up while also contributing to the ongoing effort to try and promote living off the jungle. Excellent company.
See who you meet when you park yourself in a place for a while?
A ride back in the truck. We are now 5 men, 4 women and two very large dogs. I wonder what the roadside fine would be back home for this? 8 seatbelt free passengers (sole canadian being lawful, of course), 4 of which were sitting on the sides of the pickup box. Not IN the back, but sitting on the edges as we springboarded all over the rutted, dirt road, and then down the highway back into town. I kept looking back in disbelief... I couldn`t understand how they hadn`t all been tossed off.
Came back to chill and chat with the gent from France... interesting parenting conversations. Also discussed was his connection to a local chocolate factory (I mentioned it in one of my earlier blogs), and the work that is being done through them.
Next round went to a couple of young lawyers who are in South America with an international organization trying to launch lawsuits against the Peruvian Government on behalf of rainforest dwellers. One is for an apparently appalling 90plus percent rate of Hep B in some communities (no health care whatsoever), and the other is in response to the widespread environmental contamination as a result of the oil industry here.
Dinner conversation was lively as I sat with one of the employees of the family restaurant... Juan Carlos is sweet, and the conversation covered our families, work, food, earthquakes and Canada... we did ok given his limited english and my limited spanish.
Tomorrow I will try to reconnect with Millie, get my sandals back to the point where they might last my final couple of weeks, and maybe do some stone hopping up the river.
I have an invite from Cindy to go "to the land" this week. Their family is in the process of setting up a 3500 hectare nature reserve, and it is apparently stunning. So I suppose the anti-malarials should get started again. Arequipa is not looking likely at this point, but then with me who knows?
Bet you didn`t know I could be so social, did you?
:)
Very good examples of why having just a little information can be dangerous.
After breakfast this morning I got chatting with a couple of businessmen from Lima, friends of Cindys` dad, and was promptly invited to join in on a planned trip to a small village nearby. We all pile into truck... 4 fully latin men, a french expat and me... sole Canadian and sole estrogen based unit.
Got to tell you, it was quite a ride. Great bunch of guys, but guys nonetheless and it was interesting. I was quite looking forward to observing them in action for the day... however after a short walk and easy river crossing we ended up at the riverside house of a friend, with many male & female friends in residence. Robbed of the chance for very interesting blog material.
I had met several of the people there in my time in Tarapoto, but it was neat to see them all in one place... very hippy like in attire and manner, but young. They were all there to celebrate the housewarming of this lovely open air jungle abode. Bio friendly with composting toilet and spring fed water.
I talked to a couple of young entrepreneurs who harvest / distribute various superfoods through their company based in Oregon. They were not just friends but also business associates with the owner of this new property, who himself is in the process of setting up a company to export pure sacha inchic butter. Using fair trade harvest from the local indigenous people, he hopes to encourage the end of clearing of forests in the area. Sitting with an interesting group of young people, setting their lives up while also contributing to the ongoing effort to try and promote living off the jungle. Excellent company.
See who you meet when you park yourself in a place for a while?
A ride back in the truck. We are now 5 men, 4 women and two very large dogs. I wonder what the roadside fine would be back home for this? 8 seatbelt free passengers (sole canadian being lawful, of course), 4 of which were sitting on the sides of the pickup box. Not IN the back, but sitting on the edges as we springboarded all over the rutted, dirt road, and then down the highway back into town. I kept looking back in disbelief... I couldn`t understand how they hadn`t all been tossed off.
Came back to chill and chat with the gent from France... interesting parenting conversations. Also discussed was his connection to a local chocolate factory (I mentioned it in one of my earlier blogs), and the work that is being done through them.
Next round went to a couple of young lawyers who are in South America with an international organization trying to launch lawsuits against the Peruvian Government on behalf of rainforest dwellers. One is for an apparently appalling 90plus percent rate of Hep B in some communities (no health care whatsoever), and the other is in response to the widespread environmental contamination as a result of the oil industry here.
Dinner conversation was lively as I sat with one of the employees of the family restaurant... Juan Carlos is sweet, and the conversation covered our families, work, food, earthquakes and Canada... we did ok given his limited english and my limited spanish.
Tomorrow I will try to reconnect with Millie, get my sandals back to the point where they might last my final couple of weeks, and maybe do some stone hopping up the river.
I have an invite from Cindy to go "to the land" this week. Their family is in the process of setting up a 3500 hectare nature reserve, and it is apparently stunning. So I suppose the anti-malarials should get started again. Arequipa is not looking likely at this point, but then with me who knows?
Bet you didn`t know I could be so social, did you?
:)
Friday 5 March 2010
Back in the hammock, again.
Woke this morning feeling 100%. Energised and pain free. Yay.
Had a good day yesterday (thursday), went to the local museum and managed to understand a fair bit of what the guide was saying. I also attended another one of Mikes` english classes, and it was fun.
Then Mike and I went out for a drink and ended up talking until well past 11... given more time think we could have:
enabled a peaceful world.
ended fundamentalism.
designed & implemented a social enscription program.
figured out a way for "late night sex with sue" to go global.
I love it when a really good conversation gets going! No topic off limits!
What a great young man. Going places. Mark my words.
Today was my return to Tarapoto. I have been worried about landslides on the roads with all the recent rain, so pack up and go I did. Sure enough, the road between Moyabamba and Tarapoto experienced a landslide today and is closed. Luckily it happened at a point where a detour route was possible, and I am now sitting in Tarapoto, sweltering. Ah the tropics.
After breakfast I collected my things and headed down the street, and was treated to good byes, good wishes, handshakes and cheek buses by all the Guides standing outside their agencies looking for customers. These guides all attend the evening class taught by Mike. Friendly, friendly people.
The frustrations of traveling by collectivo today were few and far between, only one station had me waiting, the rest actually called ahead and held cars for me. Beautiful trip, back to and over mountains covered in Jungle vegetation. I made good time, but 7 hours sitting in a car and my backside was begging for relief. It was good to finally get to the Hostal.
Our driver for most of the trip, lets call him Walter the wheeler-dealer, must have thought it was great fun to speed around the hairpin curves and have his back seat passengers thrown upon one another. Didn`t take long for the little boy next to me to start getting car sick. I stilled the queezies with a couple of gravol, which had me nodding off during most of the trip. The many road crews, with their stop signs were a welcome sight. Also welcome was the pretty woman in the front passenger seat, because once she started talking the driver slowed down to answer her questions and chat.
How did Walter the wheeler-dealer get his name? He stopped numerous times along the route to negotiate purchases on his return, picked up goodies, and gave goodies freely away to the police at the road checks and the toll booth operators along our route. First names with just about everybody. It was very interesting to watch.
Stunning vistas
Driving through a stream crossing the road
Ribbons of small farms along the highway and rivers
Complete change in the feel of the air... highly tropical
Drivers passing as if there is no chance there may be a car coming around a corner
Back to light fluffy clouds
A lady selling coconut juice along the road... I wish you could see her face. Honed, sun darkened native features in a study of concentration and determination, wielding her knife expertly as she hacks at the coconut in her hand. Knife goes under her arm as she inserts the straw and hands it to her customer, then she whirls around, knife in hand, looking for her next victim. Um, I mean customer.
The mountains end quite abruptly at one point, and the road stretched out straight in front of us like a snakes` tongue... get the analogy, windy road, mountain, and then straight. Snake. ??? Well that is what it reminded me of, in my gravol induced stupor.
Past Moyabamba there are more mountains. I note there are lanes painted on the roads now, and wonder why? Absolutely no one pays attention to them. Waste of taxpayer money.
Thanks to Carlos, Janet, Edwardo and Mike for making my stay in Chachapoyas so much fun. And not to worry, Edwardo you are not going to hell, and Carlos you are not getting fat.
You had to be there.
Anyhew, there`s a hammock crying out for me. Must answer the call.
Mañana.
:)
Had a good day yesterday (thursday), went to the local museum and managed to understand a fair bit of what the guide was saying. I also attended another one of Mikes` english classes, and it was fun.
Then Mike and I went out for a drink and ended up talking until well past 11... given more time think we could have:
enabled a peaceful world.
ended fundamentalism.
designed & implemented a social enscription program.
figured out a way for "late night sex with sue" to go global.
I love it when a really good conversation gets going! No topic off limits!
What a great young man. Going places. Mark my words.
Today was my return to Tarapoto. I have been worried about landslides on the roads with all the recent rain, so pack up and go I did. Sure enough, the road between Moyabamba and Tarapoto experienced a landslide today and is closed. Luckily it happened at a point where a detour route was possible, and I am now sitting in Tarapoto, sweltering. Ah the tropics.
After breakfast I collected my things and headed down the street, and was treated to good byes, good wishes, handshakes and cheek buses by all the Guides standing outside their agencies looking for customers. These guides all attend the evening class taught by Mike. Friendly, friendly people.
The frustrations of traveling by collectivo today were few and far between, only one station had me waiting, the rest actually called ahead and held cars for me. Beautiful trip, back to and over mountains covered in Jungle vegetation. I made good time, but 7 hours sitting in a car and my backside was begging for relief. It was good to finally get to the Hostal.
Our driver for most of the trip, lets call him Walter the wheeler-dealer, must have thought it was great fun to speed around the hairpin curves and have his back seat passengers thrown upon one another. Didn`t take long for the little boy next to me to start getting car sick. I stilled the queezies with a couple of gravol, which had me nodding off during most of the trip. The many road crews, with their stop signs were a welcome sight. Also welcome was the pretty woman in the front passenger seat, because once she started talking the driver slowed down to answer her questions and chat.
How did Walter the wheeler-dealer get his name? He stopped numerous times along the route to negotiate purchases on his return, picked up goodies, and gave goodies freely away to the police at the road checks and the toll booth operators along our route. First names with just about everybody. It was very interesting to watch.
Stunning vistas
Driving through a stream crossing the road
Ribbons of small farms along the highway and rivers
Complete change in the feel of the air... highly tropical
Drivers passing as if there is no chance there may be a car coming around a corner
Back to light fluffy clouds
A lady selling coconut juice along the road... I wish you could see her face. Honed, sun darkened native features in a study of concentration and determination, wielding her knife expertly as she hacks at the coconut in her hand. Knife goes under her arm as she inserts the straw and hands it to her customer, then she whirls around, knife in hand, looking for her next victim. Um, I mean customer.
The mountains end quite abruptly at one point, and the road stretched out straight in front of us like a snakes` tongue... get the analogy, windy road, mountain, and then straight. Snake. ??? Well that is what it reminded me of, in my gravol induced stupor.
Past Moyabamba there are more mountains. I note there are lanes painted on the roads now, and wonder why? Absolutely no one pays attention to them. Waste of taxpayer money.
Thanks to Carlos, Janet, Edwardo and Mike for making my stay in Chachapoyas so much fun. And not to worry, Edwardo you are not going to hell, and Carlos you are not getting fat.
You had to be there.
Anyhew, there`s a hammock crying out for me. Must answer the call.
Mañana.
:)
Wednesday 3 March 2010
Strolling about.
After a couple of rough days, I am on the rebound... albeit slowly. And my adventure continues, albeit carefully. :)
I have spent time hanging out in the central plaza, eaten some pretty excellent veggie food, observed one of Mike`s english classes and changed abodes yet again.
It has been raining. Not much happening on the trekking front, which is good because it keeps me from temptation. Walking is good though, so I rambled down the road past the University, through a pretty little neighbourhood and continued down a country lane to enjoy some incredibly uplifting views. Unfortunately the low rain bearing clouds hid the highest mountain peaks from me, but twas beautiful nonetheless (is this really one word?) Took a shortcut goat trail back, and saved half the time (and effort... it was uphill).
I passed a family building a new home, from scratch, as it were. They dug and mixed in the process of making adobe bricks in their yard, to add to the walls that were already rising from the ground. I am guessing that when done, their sense of accomplishment must be deeper than what we experience.
There were also women working in the gardens and fields, dressed in their traditional clothes, skin baked almost black from their time in the sun. Running around town were various dogs, chickens and turkeys. And kids. One little boy kept coming up for a hug, and then he would try to put his hands in my pocket, looking for sweets I think.
A leisurely morning spent chatting with Janet ended with a visit to the local market where fish was purchased for her family lunch. The selected specimen was chopped, cleaned and bagged... and the leftover liquid brushed off the counter and onto the floor. On closer inspection I noted that both of the husband and wife team were wearing rubber boots... and they were standing in at least 2 inches of watery slime puddled around their feet. Is it any wonder that these markets have such an aromatic component?
The hostal I had moved into turned into a bit of a pain... I will be generous and blame a lack of communication, but I came back yesterday to find that all my stuff had been moved into a different room, and this one was a filthy dive. I couldn`t leave because she had a bunch of my clothes to launder, so I spent one night basically going "ICK", sleeping in my sleep sack, and making sure that nothing I owned touched the floor. Today I collected my laundry and scrammed. Room at new hostal suitably inspected. Should sleep well.
I am still a bit tired and am thinking I may just stay put in the north for my last 3 weeks here, rather than head back to Lima and on to Arequipa or Huaraz. I will be in Chachapoyas for at least one more day. For some reason I think I may not want to push myself and travel today...
I`ll probably take another stroll tomorrow. Or something.
Buenos.
I have spent time hanging out in the central plaza, eaten some pretty excellent veggie food, observed one of Mike`s english classes and changed abodes yet again.
It has been raining. Not much happening on the trekking front, which is good because it keeps me from temptation. Walking is good though, so I rambled down the road past the University, through a pretty little neighbourhood and continued down a country lane to enjoy some incredibly uplifting views. Unfortunately the low rain bearing clouds hid the highest mountain peaks from me, but twas beautiful nonetheless (is this really one word?) Took a shortcut goat trail back, and saved half the time (and effort... it was uphill).
I passed a family building a new home, from scratch, as it were. They dug and mixed in the process of making adobe bricks in their yard, to add to the walls that were already rising from the ground. I am guessing that when done, their sense of accomplishment must be deeper than what we experience.
There were also women working in the gardens and fields, dressed in their traditional clothes, skin baked almost black from their time in the sun. Running around town were various dogs, chickens and turkeys. And kids. One little boy kept coming up for a hug, and then he would try to put his hands in my pocket, looking for sweets I think.
A leisurely morning spent chatting with Janet ended with a visit to the local market where fish was purchased for her family lunch. The selected specimen was chopped, cleaned and bagged... and the leftover liquid brushed off the counter and onto the floor. On closer inspection I noted that both of the husband and wife team were wearing rubber boots... and they were standing in at least 2 inches of watery slime puddled around their feet. Is it any wonder that these markets have such an aromatic component?
The hostal I had moved into turned into a bit of a pain... I will be generous and blame a lack of communication, but I came back yesterday to find that all my stuff had been moved into a different room, and this one was a filthy dive. I couldn`t leave because she had a bunch of my clothes to launder, so I spent one night basically going "ICK", sleeping in my sleep sack, and making sure that nothing I owned touched the floor. Today I collected my laundry and scrammed. Room at new hostal suitably inspected. Should sleep well.
I am still a bit tired and am thinking I may just stay put in the north for my last 3 weeks here, rather than head back to Lima and on to Arequipa or Huaraz. I will be in Chachapoyas for at least one more day. For some reason I think I may not want to push myself and travel today...
I`ll probably take another stroll tomorrow. Or something.
Buenos.
Paying my piper.
It starts so simply, with the realization that along with feeling extra tired, my wrists ache.
The pain moves up my arms. It takes my elbows and reaches out to squeeze my shoulders. Closing my eyes I take an inventory; evaluating, calculating, and wondering, how long? How bad? I head to bed.
Experience has taught me there is naught to do but lie down, take the pain killers and get ready to wait it out.
As usually happens, tired turns into the kind of fatigue that dazes. The two always come hand in hand. My back aches. My hips, knees, then ankles. I can feel the joints in my hands, which have gone ice cold.
I let my mind drift, a deliberate separation of self. In this state I can focus on something other than the pain. A sort of half waking/ half dreaming "away" mode. Kids, dogs, dreams, plans, memories. All good things to wander with.
A sleeping pill, and what I suspect is a vain hope that I will wake pain free.
Morning brings little relief, yet I must pack my backpack and change hostels. My new digs of course have a bed, and under its blankets I immediately crawl.
Exhaustion has me asleep in minutes.
I am interrupted by the stabs radiating from my elbows. The pain reaches bone deep. My muscles ache. I can feel my heartbeat, the tempo throbbing in my joints. Even the blood flowing through my veins seems to hurt. I give it an 8 out 10 on the pain scale.
More meds. More sleep.
I wake again, and must make my way to get something to eat. I am completely dazed and sapped of strength, but the pain level has dropped and I know that more sleep will tame the beast once again.
Some call it breakthrough pain. I call it an "off" day... in this case, two.
Whatever you call it, I`ve been taking it easy in the days since.
The piper has exacted his payment, and reminded me of the importance of pacing.
The pain moves up my arms. It takes my elbows and reaches out to squeeze my shoulders. Closing my eyes I take an inventory; evaluating, calculating, and wondering, how long? How bad? I head to bed.
Experience has taught me there is naught to do but lie down, take the pain killers and get ready to wait it out.
As usually happens, tired turns into the kind of fatigue that dazes. The two always come hand in hand. My back aches. My hips, knees, then ankles. I can feel the joints in my hands, which have gone ice cold.
I let my mind drift, a deliberate separation of self. In this state I can focus on something other than the pain. A sort of half waking/ half dreaming "away" mode. Kids, dogs, dreams, plans, memories. All good things to wander with.
A sleeping pill, and what I suspect is a vain hope that I will wake pain free.
Morning brings little relief, yet I must pack my backpack and change hostels. My new digs of course have a bed, and under its blankets I immediately crawl.
Exhaustion has me asleep in minutes.
I am interrupted by the stabs radiating from my elbows. The pain reaches bone deep. My muscles ache. I can feel my heartbeat, the tempo throbbing in my joints. Even the blood flowing through my veins seems to hurt. I give it an 8 out 10 on the pain scale.
More meds. More sleep.
I wake again, and must make my way to get something to eat. I am completely dazed and sapped of strength, but the pain level has dropped and I know that more sleep will tame the beast once again.
Some call it breakthrough pain. I call it an "off" day... in this case, two.
Whatever you call it, I`ve been taking it easy in the days since.
The piper has exacted his payment, and reminded me of the importance of pacing.
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