Departure day..
I am not ready to let go of this glorious adventure yet, so Gerlo has agreed to a very early morning canoe ride up the main river before breakfast. The air is fresh and the sun hasn't yet reached it daytime scorch, although I can feel it coming.. The waters are wider here, calm and dark, leaving the canoe strokes rippling as we paddle along. The birds are vocal and I am using binoculars to try and find them in the in the vegetation along the river.
Enjoyed my final royal breakfast, and at the last minute possible boarded the speedboat for the return ride to iquitos. Gerlo was with me, but the plan was for him to hop boats mid journey for a meet up with a new group headed to the lodge. We were chatting and saying comfortable goodbyes as the two boats came along side. Change of plans it seems as their plane is delayed, and so he came back with me to Iquitos.
I have time to spare before my flight to Lima, so we head out for a short historical tour of city. A stroll down the sidewalk along the river is accompanied by mototaxi serenade. We take a rickshaw to get ice cream and tour a sad little city museum. There is poverty evident at every . every turn. We end our walkabout back to the company headquarters, gerlo meeting up with people he knew along the way. It was fun. Hot, humid and have managed to collect more mosquito bites in a couple of hours in the city than I did during 7 full days in the Jungle.
Short cab ride to the airport, which is crowded and hot. My plane is delayed and the sweat is once again beading. I got a window seat, so I got to take one long, lingering last look as the pink river got ever smaller in the distance. Am really, really sad to have this part of my trip end. What an adventure the fine folks at Amazonia Expeditions provided me... wonderful from first email contact to my delivery back at the airport.
In no time at all I find myself back at the Lima airport... where I promptly check in for my flight back to Canada. Next up I nip into the washroom for a quick wash up and a change into fresh clothes... don't want to be too stinky on the long flight home. Pay my departure tax, pass through security and then a wander about the shops where I spend the last of my soles in the gift shop on a couple of trinkets. On to the Air Canada gate for my overnight flight home.
So my adventure concludes. In the end most of my preplanned activities and travels were abandoned, but there were plenty of exceptional alternatives. I am headed home warm, tanned and healthy... albeit bone rack skinny. Probably won't take long for the skinny part to change.
Saturday 30 May 2009
Amazonia Expeditions... paddle, paddle, pee
Time to return to the main lodge. The usual reliable transportation and smooth introduction to my digs.
Heading out for the rest of the day through a swampy area and a small lake. After several hours of hacking our way through thick shrubs and trees for a long time, and lots of deaf ends and turn arounds it was losing its' charm. Too much cutting through. We finally reached our destination, an observation platform raft in the midst of a watery, vegetation filled bird viewing area. I fall on the peanut butter and jelly lunch, I am famished. It is tasty and feels fun to eat something simple.
The mosquitoes are thick, and there is no breeze to keep them away so we depart the raft. But first I must ask the boys to hop in the boat and paddle around some bushes because I am in a desperate need of a pee.
I look around. Where the hell to I pee? Holding on to the railing with one hand, bare butt hanging over the edge of the raft, with my other hand frantically trying to keep the mosquitoes from sinking their snouts into such a lily white, juicy and fully un - deeted target.
Yep. Attack of the killer mosquitoes meets exposed bum. Who do you think won?
The boys dutifully return and we head off to an area known to be frequented by the Huatson Bird. A cool looking prehistoric dude. Unfortunately I couldn't get a good picture.
Our afternoon paddle saw us gliding past the zip line canopy platform. Still no. I think there is a bigger, meaner breed of mosquito in this area. They are aggressive and no getting away from them. This is a dark area of the reserve... the tall, full canopy trees allow little light to penetrate to the water.
Almost lose Gerlo overboard... again. What a laugh we have.
The monkeys can be heard overhead, but keep hidden. Too bad.
My time in this mystical place is growing closed.
Heading out for the rest of the day through a swampy area and a small lake. After several hours of hacking our way through thick shrubs and trees for a long time, and lots of deaf ends and turn arounds it was losing its' charm. Too much cutting through. We finally reached our destination, an observation platform raft in the midst of a watery, vegetation filled bird viewing area. I fall on the peanut butter and jelly lunch, I am famished. It is tasty and feels fun to eat something simple.
The mosquitoes are thick, and there is no breeze to keep them away so we depart the raft. But first I must ask the boys to hop in the boat and paddle around some bushes because I am in a desperate need of a pee.
I look around. Where the hell to I pee? Holding on to the railing with one hand, bare butt hanging over the edge of the raft, with my other hand frantically trying to keep the mosquitoes from sinking their snouts into such a lily white, juicy and fully un - deeted target.
Yep. Attack of the killer mosquitoes meets exposed bum. Who do you think won?
The boys dutifully return and we head off to an area known to be frequented by the Huatson Bird. A cool looking prehistoric dude. Unfortunately I couldn't get a good picture.
Our afternoon paddle saw us gliding past the zip line canopy platform. Still no. I think there is a bigger, meaner breed of mosquito in this area. They are aggressive and no getting away from them. This is a dark area of the reserve... the tall, full canopy trees allow little light to penetrate to the water.
Almost lose Gerlo overboard... again. What a laugh we have.
The monkeys can be heard overhead, but keep hidden. Too bad.
My time in this mystical place is growing closed.
Amazonia Expeditions... poison frogs and a friend
Even though I dropped and broke my travel alarm clock last night I still manage to get up for an early start to my day. There are again Pink Dolphins playing in the river, and I watch them and a couple of large eagles as I sit on the dock waiting for breakfast.
Really cool juice with breakfast... and pancakes!
This Am / aft. the jungle is "high ground". Very humid, very humousy. Huge plants and evidence all around of animal occupation. Our goal is poison dart tree frogs.
Up the Rio Blanco, and seven hours mucking about the Jungle looking for these tiny wonders proves fruitful. Numerous of the thumbnail size poison cuties hide in nooks and crannies, many wearing their young on their backs.
Brilliant red and black frogs. Highly poisonous. Florescent yellow and black stripped frogs. Not quite as bad. I am told they are only poison when squished, so I make sure to handle them carefully
Our froggy wish list includes the elusive Harlequin frog, known to be sometimes found in the area. On and on we slog, eyes peeled for the tiny turquoise blue and black frogs with red feet and belly. This one is not dangerous. After hours without luck Gerlo is willing to keep going, but I tell him not to worry because if I am really meant to see it then it will happen. I kid you not, less than five minutes later I pause for breath before a tree trunk laying across my path and I look down just in time to see a Harlequin frog slowly hopping along the trunk. Gerlo looks with disbelief, and I just say "see what I mean... it was meant to be".
Gerlo gathers fruit pods and places them in the boat with us on the return trip. Heading along the river I see movement in the trees and shout 'Monkey!" The trees begin to frantically shake as this creature rushes to meet our boat pulling along side the vegetation.
Meet Dorilla, rescued from the market as a baby and brought back to the research lodge. Playful by nature she caused such havoc they relocated her to a corner of the reserve located across from a safe station. She is checked on daily, and receives food everyday. Semi domesticated, she takes to visitors well, and allows me to feed her bananas and the ice cream fruit.
What a sweetie. Gerlo and Marsielle seems surprised that she became so trusting of me that she actually stuck out her leg to me in as a request to help her with clean off some kind of leg tick / wound. I rubbed her belly and had her lying out flat as she soaked up my back rub. Just like a member of her troupe so to speak. I lost a big piece of my heart to her.
Made a short stop at the safe station and saw a mustached marmoset (rescued as infant), a couple of huge, colourful macaws and a very playful young dog.
Other sightings today? Many nasty biting ants, a few non-threatening looking spiders.. Blue with red butterflies, moths, and lots of bats.
Have been blessed with another sunny day, and I close my eyes to appreciate the feel of the heat and river breeze on the boat, still not lost despite all the shortcuts we take through the vegetation.
I am pretty sure I am starting to react to the Deet. Hope I can manage for another couple of days. Lots of thoughts of my very sick mom today, and wonder how she's doing.
There are going to be 30 teenagers at the main lodge tonight (or so I'm told). Figure it will be a noisy human night rather than a noisy animal night.
Really cool juice with breakfast... and pancakes!
This Am / aft. the jungle is "high ground". Very humid, very humousy. Huge plants and evidence all around of animal occupation. Our goal is poison dart tree frogs.
Up the Rio Blanco, and seven hours mucking about the Jungle looking for these tiny wonders proves fruitful. Numerous of the thumbnail size poison cuties hide in nooks and crannies, many wearing their young on their backs.
Brilliant red and black frogs. Highly poisonous. Florescent yellow and black stripped frogs. Not quite as bad. I am told they are only poison when squished, so I make sure to handle them carefullyOur froggy wish list includes the elusive Harlequin frog, known to be sometimes found in the area. On and on we slog, eyes peeled for the tiny turquoise blue and black frogs with red feet and belly. This one is not dangerous. After hours without luck Gerlo is willing to keep going, but I tell him not to worry because if I am really meant to see it then it will happen. I kid you not, less than five minutes later I pause for breath before a tree trunk laying across my path and I look down just in time to see a Harlequin frog slowly hopping along the trunk. Gerlo looks with disbelief, and I just say "see what I mean... it was meant to be".
Gerlo gathers fruit pods and places them in the boat with us on the return trip. Heading along the river I see movement in the trees and shout 'Monkey!" The trees begin to frantically shake as this creature rushes to meet our boat pulling along side the vegetation.
Meet Dorilla, rescued from the market as a baby and brought back to the research lodge. Playful by nature she caused such havoc they relocated her to a corner of the reserve located across from a safe station. She is checked on daily, and receives food everyday. Semi domesticated, she takes to visitors well, and allows me to feed her bananas and the ice cream fruit. What a sweetie. Gerlo and Marsielle seems surprised that she became so trusting of me that she actually stuck out her leg to me in as a request to help her with clean off some kind of leg tick / wound. I rubbed her belly and had her lying out flat as she soaked up my back rub. Just like a member of her troupe so to speak. I lost a big piece of my heart to her.
Made a short stop at the safe station and saw a mustached marmoset (rescued as infant), a couple of huge, colourful macaws and a very playful young dog.
Other sightings today? Many nasty biting ants, a few non-threatening looking spiders.. Blue with red butterflies, moths, and lots of bats.
Have been blessed with another sunny day, and I close my eyes to appreciate the feel of the heat and river breeze on the boat, still not lost despite all the shortcuts we take through the vegetation.
I am pretty sure I am starting to react to the Deet. Hope I can manage for another couple of days. Lots of thoughts of my very sick mom today, and wonder how she's doing.
There are going to be 30 teenagers at the main lodge tonight (or so I'm told). Figure it will be a noisy human night rather than a noisy animal night.
Wednesday 13 May 2009
Amazonia Expeditions... wows me again
Today I once again head out on a boat ride with Gerlo and Marsiel. We head well up river, and once again Gerlo puts his machete to work, hacking his way through blocks of vegetation, almost falling in a couple of times - hillarious.
Boat FULL of spiders and many kinds of ants falling off trees as we hack through. Again. I entertain Marsiel by trying to scoop the spiders overboard with a large pod of somekind. Again.
Gerlo is being stung like crazy by the ants. Ouch.
Made it upriver to the "dry season campground"
We hike into the "heart of the jungle" - different than the terra firma close to the research station, more humas, larger ferns and trees. Harder to find the path.
Armadillo / anteater evidence abounds.
We spot spider monkeys in large troupe. They are curious, one ventures quite close and cocks it head in curiosity. Very cute. The larger (and smarter?) ones take off in other direction
Snake sighting... Six feet long and iridescent green with yellow head, Marsielle says not poison. I get almost close enough to touch it before it slitheres away.
Bazillion mosquitoes. centipedes, white "milk" tree frogs, and a huge eagle of the Amazonian kind.
Unbeknownst to me the plan was to cut down a plam tree for me to try fresh "heart of palm", but I when I realise what they are up to I ask them not to "kill a tree" for me. Environmentalist gene or something.
My first mosquito bite is itching me. Acquired last night on my foot, little bugger must have gotten me as I was putting on my jammies.
Sometime in the conversation it is decided Gerlo and I will switch shirts tomorrow... he wants the blue shirt now. Such a boy.
We return after our tramp, flying upriver with a lovely warm breeze. I spot masses of what looks like red clematis, weird fruit, flowers and berries galore. I am assured it is monkey food, not edible for humans.
The afternoon tarkget is Pink Dolphin lake. On my afternoon wish list is another sloth sighting. We motor it's length, putting here and there along the trees ringing it. I get pink dolphins, spider monkeys, turquose birds, neon red / black birds, indigo birds and aonother large hawlk sighting
And my sloth. So entertaining as it hangs by one long, furry arm while it scratches away with the other. Belly, bum, legs, ears... It lifts it's head when Gerlo does his imitation sloth call, then just return to his scratching.
Perfect
Despite having doubled up the seat cushions I still come away from the day with a sore bum.
Dinner with Gerlo makes for interesting conversation, and on my wander about before retiring to my room for the night I discover the presence of a large green tree frog just waiting for his photo shoot.
Cold shower, clean teeth and a scramble into jammies an the protection of my screened in bed.
High 5 to Gerlo, Marsielle and Amazonia Expedfor once again helping me have an excellent day... definitely one for the memory box. Indiana Jones probably never had so much fun!
Amazonia Expeditions... day 3!
Feb 26th.
After another great sleep, I am up early and raring to go .
Our journey begins with a 6:15 speedboat departure. We travel up (down?) river +/- 30 minutes, then transfer to canoe. Whenever we get where we are going (much trust involved here) we will hop out and it will be a rubber boots required situation.
It is a great monkey sighting day, starting when Gerlo recognizes the sound of a baby calling out to it's mother. Mama and baby are on opposite sides of the river, and the babe sounds in distress. We follow mama in and find her troupe, which is traveling together with a troupe of a different kind of monkey. Gerlo easily recognizes them, but I can't for the life of me remember the names.
More beautiful birds, monkeys and some really ugly spiders (um, yay?). No snakes. Lizards yes, ants (leaf cutter and fire), and giant millipedes too.
Much of the area we walk through is blanketed with pretty lilac lilies. It is interesting to see the tropical plants in their REAL setting... no spritzing and pampering required. Ferns abound and I see bushes that look like the Oregon grape we have at home.
It is amazing to see the massive ant and termite nests built on the tree trunks. Several times Gerlo reminds me not to touch certain trees, as they exist in harmony with the fire ants... and apparently they will attack if me if I make the mistake of bothering the tree.
We are again traveling with Marsielle, an aboriginal local guide, who has kind eyes and a fun sense of humour. He speaks the local dialect, and castilliano. No english but we seem to get on well. Gerlo makes a great interpreter as well as being a superb guide.
Our monkey search continues, which involves much looking up. They can really only be located by watching for tree movement as they jump from one branch to another, and then following along.
Monkeys leave quite a trail to follow, with discarded Ice cream fruit pods and other small berries and fruit pits. The ice cream fruit tastes like cotton candy... although I am warned l not to swallow the large black pods inside. It is their fuzzy outer layer that is edible and I find it easiest to just to use my tongue to separate them. (The pods / seeds inside will make a human quite ill). There is a small yellow fruit (like a tiny apricot) that is particularly delicious, with an addictive sweet/tart taste.
After a satisfying bushwhack, we eat a well deserved brunch (11ish) and then climb back into the waiting canoe. I pause and think that it is a good thing that the canoe is where we left it, untied...
We return to the research station for a rest. I strip off for a nearly nude nap (it is sweltering) and find a little red tick making it's way up my tummy. ICK. Squish. Sleep claims me for an hour or so and I am a bit groggy when lunch is called. At this point I am still feeling full from brunch, but the food is again delicious and I manage to eat.
Afternoon finds us back on the water. We upset a troupe of monkeys (bushy black with brown faces... big tails, spider monkeys I think.) and their leader aggressively tries to scare us away by jumping up and down in the trees and screeching at us. Way cool.
We get another glimpse of a pigmy marmoset. They are so tiny and cute. I can see why monkey smuggling is a big industry.
As usual we are following no particular trail. We glide through trees and duck under bushes. Gerlo makes ample use of his machete to carve a path and spiders fall into the canoe as he does. I provide entertainment as I try and scoop them all out and over the side.
We see beautiful neon red & black birds and brown & orange birds with red heads. Amazonian kingfishers fly bye. Gerlo says he will make an ornithologist of me yet. Probably not with my memory...
We were very quiet trying to locate things by sound, and in the background there is loud, echoing plopping sounds as fruit drop from the trees into the water. Haunting. On the tree trunks sit huge small bodied but long, skinny legged spiders, camouflaged to exact bark colour.
We made it home before the rain... Edgar the pet alligator was waiting
After another great sleep, I am up early and raring to go .
Our journey begins with a 6:15 speedboat departure. We travel up (down?) river +/- 30 minutes, then transfer to canoe. Whenever we get where we are going (much trust involved here) we will hop out and it will be a rubber boots required situation.
It is a great monkey sighting day, starting when Gerlo recognizes the sound of a baby calling out to it's mother. Mama and baby are on opposite sides of the river, and the babe sounds in distress. We follow mama in and find her troupe, which is traveling together with a troupe of a different kind of monkey. Gerlo easily recognizes them, but I can't for the life of me remember the names.
More beautiful birds, monkeys and some really ugly spiders (um, yay?). No snakes. Lizards yes, ants (leaf cutter and fire), and giant millipedes too.
Much of the area we walk through is blanketed with pretty lilac lilies. It is interesting to see the tropical plants in their REAL setting... no spritzing and pampering required. Ferns abound and I see bushes that look like the Oregon grape we have at home.
It is amazing to see the massive ant and termite nests built on the tree trunks. Several times Gerlo reminds me not to touch certain trees, as they exist in harmony with the fire ants... and apparently they will attack if me if I make the mistake of bothering the tree.
We are again traveling with Marsielle, an aboriginal local guide, who has kind eyes and a fun sense of humour. He speaks the local dialect, and castilliano. No english but we seem to get on well. Gerlo makes a great interpreter as well as being a superb guide.
Our monkey search continues, which involves much looking up. They can really only be located by watching for tree movement as they jump from one branch to another, and then following along.
Monkeys leave quite a trail to follow, with discarded Ice cream fruit pods and other small berries and fruit pits. The ice cream fruit tastes like cotton candy... although I am warned l not to swallow the large black pods inside. It is their fuzzy outer layer that is edible and I find it easiest to just to use my tongue to separate them. (The pods / seeds inside will make a human quite ill). There is a small yellow fruit (like a tiny apricot) that is particularly delicious, with an addictive sweet/tart taste.
After a satisfying bushwhack, we eat a well deserved brunch (11ish) and then climb back into the waiting canoe. I pause and think that it is a good thing that the canoe is where we left it, untied...
We return to the research station for a rest. I strip off for a nearly nude nap (it is sweltering) and find a little red tick making it's way up my tummy. ICK. Squish. Sleep claims me for an hour or so and I am a bit groggy when lunch is called. At this point I am still feeling full from brunch, but the food is again delicious and I manage to eat.
Afternoon finds us back on the water. We upset a troupe of monkeys (bushy black with brown faces... big tails, spider monkeys I think.) and their leader aggressively tries to scare us away by jumping up and down in the trees and screeching at us. Way cool.
We get another glimpse of a pigmy marmoset. They are so tiny and cute. I can see why monkey smuggling is a big industry.
As usual we are following no particular trail. We glide through trees and duck under bushes. Gerlo makes ample use of his machete to carve a path and spiders fall into the canoe as he does. I provide entertainment as I try and scoop them all out and over the side.
We see beautiful neon red & black birds and brown & orange birds with red heads. Amazonian kingfishers fly bye. Gerlo says he will make an ornithologist of me yet. Probably not with my memory...
We were very quiet trying to locate things by sound, and in the background there is loud, echoing plopping sounds as fruit drop from the trees into the water. Haunting. On the tree trunks sit huge small bodied but long, skinny legged spiders, camouflaged to exact bark colour.
We made it home before the rain... Edgar the pet alligator was waiting
Saturday 25 April 2009
Amazonia Expeditions... Fun in the Jungle
Feb. 25th.
I thought I might have trouble sleeping here, there is such a wild sound to the place. Buzzing insects, frogs, birds, and who knows what else? I followed the "tropical health & safety guidelines by ensuring that the bed netting was tucked under the mattress, as much to keep any lurking spiders out of my bed as to keep out the mosquitoes. It felt kind of harem-like to be sleeping in a big 4 poster bed cocooned by netting.
I actually slept like a log... not a single mosquito bothered me and the symphony of sound was quite comforting. The oxygen rich air didn't hurt either.
However the flying cockroach in the bathroom took me by surprise, and as it sailed past me I was quite sure it must have been 5 inches or more. Once my heart rate settled and I got a closer inspection, I'm thinking probably 2.
Up for early AM boat ride - 2 hours to the research station. How they found it beats me. I got lost after the first "shortcut" through the dense jungle. Oh who am I kidding... of course I got lost. This is the Amazonian Jungle for heavens sake!
My question is this: If the land/floor/lake is always changing with the rise and fall of seasonal waters, how do they know where they are going? How to keep track of where they have been? With a the river rising up to 9 meters in the wet season, what kind of markers can they follow?
I am the only "guest" at the lodge for a couple of days. This is fine by me, lots of privacy and opportunity to observe. I expect it will be very quiet.
I do wish I had followed through on the impulse I had to grab something to read off the shelf in the main lodge to bring with me. There is nothing to read and no cards etc. to pass "down time" with. The food is good - real veggies and lentils at lunch. I just may be able to gain back a bit of the weight I have lost since the beginning of my great adventure.
After lunch it was hopping back into a canoe to find "terra firma", or high ground. Not such an easy feat in the middle of rainy season. Once there I find myself winding my way through big trees, massive vines and lots of mud. There are Rubber trees with scarring still visible from the"boom" time, when tapping the trees was a major industry in the Amazon.
Along with the mud and mosquitoes I saw a couple of interesting birds & animal tracks. The monkeys are off playing somewhere else apparently.
Me, in the jungle, up to my knees in water / mug, surrounded by clouds of screaming mosquitoes. Never have I sweated like this. Very Cool.
On my return to the station, I watched pink dolphins feeding in the river in front of my room. So graceful and full of fun. I also met the pet "caymans" - babies really. Pepe and Edgar. Wonder how big they have to get before cute becomes dangerous. I discover a small lizard / gecko in my room... good!.. they eat spiders and mosquitoes. It is camouflaged to match the silvered wood of the room. This is much different than the lizards we found during our walk in the woods, which were bright green with black stripes.
The weather today has been hot, sunny and humid. No sign of rain. Calling this the "rainy season" is kind of misnomer. It doesn't rain much more than the rest of the year, but the waters rise as the rains in the mountains across the country are carried down raging rivers into the basin enroute, eventually, to Brazil and the Atlantic Ocean.
The air is saturated though, so much so that I can actually put my arm out and watch the moisture accumulate and bead on my skin.
After a very cold shower I slapped on more mosquito repellent in preparation for sundown.
Note: 30% Deet repellent does about an hour, then watch out! 50% would be better. Too bad you can't buy it in Canada. Best bet though is to make sure you bring and wear long sleeved shirts and long pants. Lightweight of course.
I lent Gerlo my long sleeve pink shirt because I just couldn't stand to see him being eaten alive while he sat in front of me in the canoe. He looked adorable and got razzed like crazy by the other guys here. Hey, it is a "Mens" shirt...
As darkness fell, once again I was gifted with incredible insect sounds, frog calls and bird symphonies. Sitting safe in my screened in room it feels romantic... not sure I would feel that way out in the night sitting like bait for the creatures of the wild world I am visiting.
Another night with no electricity. The lights in the lodge consist of kerosene lamps along the walkways and flashlights in the room. Very glad to have the headlamp, and it is an adventure trying to sort my way in the dark.
It is a clear night, so we head out to look for Caymans on the river. How fabulous... boating at night with a swath of shining stars overhead and the shadows of trees/bushes in relief all around us against the sky . I breath deeply to create a memory of the scents around me. I never want to forget this.
A cayman's eyes look red when caught by light apparently, so we kept our eyes peeled. We didn't have much luck which I am told is is common with the waters so high. They can go deep into the flooded forest for cover and food.
So far this is not the jungle from Indiana Jones. We are not hacking our way through massive vines and ferns, and I haven't been attacked by roving bands of evil spiders.
All in all, a great day. One for the books.
I thought I might have trouble sleeping here, there is such a wild sound to the place. Buzzing insects, frogs, birds, and who knows what else? I followed the "tropical health & safety guidelines by ensuring that the bed netting was tucked under the mattress, as much to keep any lurking spiders out of my bed as to keep out the mosquitoes. It felt kind of harem-like to be sleeping in a big 4 poster bed cocooned by netting.
I actually slept like a log... not a single mosquito bothered me and the symphony of sound was quite comforting. The oxygen rich air didn't hurt either.
However the flying cockroach in the bathroom took me by surprise, and as it sailed past me I was quite sure it must have been 5 inches or more. Once my heart rate settled and I got a closer inspection, I'm thinking probably 2.
Up for early AM boat ride - 2 hours to the research station. How they found it beats me. I got lost after the first "shortcut" through the dense jungle. Oh who am I kidding... of course I got lost. This is the Amazonian Jungle for heavens sake!
My question is this: If the land/floor/lake is always changing with the rise and fall of seasonal waters, how do they know where they are going? How to keep track of where they have been? With a the river rising up to 9 meters in the wet season, what kind of markers can they follow?
I am the only "guest" at the lodge for a couple of days. This is fine by me, lots of privacy and opportunity to observe. I expect it will be very quiet.
I do wish I had followed through on the impulse I had to grab something to read off the shelf in the main lodge to bring with me. There is nothing to read and no cards etc. to pass "down time" with. The food is good - real veggies and lentils at lunch. I just may be able to gain back a bit of the weight I have lost since the beginning of my great adventure.
After lunch it was hopping back into a canoe to find "terra firma", or high ground. Not such an easy feat in the middle of rainy season. Once there I find myself winding my way through big trees, massive vines and lots of mud. There are Rubber trees with scarring still visible from the"boom" time, when tapping the trees was a major industry in the Amazon.
Along with the mud and mosquitoes I saw a couple of interesting birds & animal tracks. The monkeys are off playing somewhere else apparently.
Me, in the jungle, up to my knees in water / mug, surrounded by clouds of screaming mosquitoes. Never have I sweated like this. Very Cool.
On my return to the station, I watched pink dolphins feeding in the river in front of my room. So graceful and full of fun. I also met the pet "caymans" - babies really. Pepe and Edgar. Wonder how big they have to get before cute becomes dangerous. I discover a small lizard / gecko in my room... good!.. they eat spiders and mosquitoes. It is camouflaged to match the silvered wood of the room. This is much different than the lizards we found during our walk in the woods, which were bright green with black stripes.
The weather today has been hot, sunny and humid. No sign of rain. Calling this the "rainy season" is kind of misnomer. It doesn't rain much more than the rest of the year, but the waters rise as the rains in the mountains across the country are carried down raging rivers into the basin enroute, eventually, to Brazil and the Atlantic Ocean.
The air is saturated though, so much so that I can actually put my arm out and watch the moisture accumulate and bead on my skin.
After a very cold shower I slapped on more mosquito repellent in preparation for sundown.
Note: 30% Deet repellent does about an hour, then watch out! 50% would be better. Too bad you can't buy it in Canada. Best bet though is to make sure you bring and wear long sleeved shirts and long pants. Lightweight of course.
I lent Gerlo my long sleeve pink shirt because I just couldn't stand to see him being eaten alive while he sat in front of me in the canoe. He looked adorable and got razzed like crazy by the other guys here. Hey, it is a "Mens" shirt...
As darkness fell, once again I was gifted with incredible insect sounds, frog calls and bird symphonies. Sitting safe in my screened in room it feels romantic... not sure I would feel that way out in the night sitting like bait for the creatures of the wild world I am visiting.
Another night with no electricity. The lights in the lodge consist of kerosene lamps along the walkways and flashlights in the room. Very glad to have the headlamp, and it is an adventure trying to sort my way in the dark.
It is a clear night, so we head out to look for Caymans on the river. How fabulous... boating at night with a swath of shining stars overhead and the shadows of trees/bushes in relief all around us against the sky . I breath deeply to create a memory of the scents around me. I never want to forget this.
A cayman's eyes look red when caught by light apparently, so we kept our eyes peeled. We didn't have much luck which I am told is is common with the waters so high. They can go deep into the flooded forest for cover and food.
So far this is not the jungle from Indiana Jones. We are not hacking our way through massive vines and ferns, and I haven't been attacked by roving bands of evil spiders.
All in all, a great day. One for the books.
Tuesday 10 March 2009
Amazon bound... Journey to mosquito land
Feb. 24th.
I managed to while away my last extended day in Trujillo, and the flight to Lima was angst free and uneventful. Knowing that I had an uncomfortable overnight planned on waiting room chairs, I took my time browsing the stores. LAN had given me a food voucher to compensate me for my "trouble" and I enjoyed Pizza in the food court.
As I have previously mentioned the Airport a Lima is a large, modern affair. The boutiques and restaurants are open 24/7, as is their Internet cafe. One last call to Air Canada proved fruitful, as my originally coveted return date had opened up, so once more I had a date change happening. E-mailed the tour company out of Iquitos I had reserved with and gave them the heads up that I would stay two more days... they responded giving me a couple of options as far as lodges. I told them I was too brain dead to make decisions and they should schedule my time as they best saw fit, seeing as they were the experienced party in the arrangement, and I but a novice amazonian explorer. I have to say they have been exceptional.
Then I went to spend my evening trying to sleep under bright lights on waiting room chairs.
My only real observation is that it is amazing how noisy an empty waiting room is...
Moderately queasy, and with big, dark bags under my eyes, I board the plane and we depart for the last "big adventure" of my trip.
A beautiful sunrise presented itself, and we then began our descent into Iquitos. We headed through 6 separate layers of cloud... some wispy, one popcorn like, and one that was pretty standard from above but that became like long rolls of dirty grey wool lined up in the sky when we got below it. My first sight of the Amazon River was like a fairy tale come true. Massive and winding, a dark pink colour in shocking relief to the green of the forests.
I was expecting to be hit with a wave of hot humid air when deplaning, but it must have been too early in the morning because I found the air to be pleasantly warm. Humid, yes, but I am a west coast girl and am fairly well acquainted with "moist"...
After a smooth airport pick up and transport I was introduced to my guide for the week, Gerlo. Speaking in almost perfect english (yes!) we wander over to the market to get breakfast before we are to board the speedboat to take us upriver to the lodge. Our little wander through the market (noisy, smelly and dirty) took on a yuck factor all of its' own when Gerlo pointed out that among the chopped up alligator for sale was a perfectly skinned whole monkey. I delayed breakfast consumption to a later time.
Quickly filling two water bottles with potable water, I was escorted to the now waiting speed boat and joined the cargo of goods to be delivered upriver. A lovely three and a half hours of zipping up the amazon, and then one of its tributaries ensued. Lots to see, including grey river dolphins, small villages, boats ferrying people/crops to the city and all manner of water lettuce, and all from a cushy, comfortable seat. Gerlo and I spent a bit of time getting to know each other while the winds did their best to whip my hair into a rats nest and my ears rang from the buffeting. We stopped and I registered with the game reserve warden, and was treated to the sight of naked little kids playing/swimming in the river. All good.
A wee bit of copywrite infringed info about the reserve where I spent my time:
"The Reserva Comunal Tamshiyacu-Tahuayo (RCTT)
The Reserva Comunal Tamshiyacu-Tahuayo is located in the northeastern Peruvian Amazon within the state of Loreto and extends over an area of 322,500 hectares. The reserve is situated in the upland forests which divide the valley of the Amazon from the valley of the Yavari... The reserve is bordered on the west by the upper Tahuayo and Qb. Blanco rivers, the south by the upper Yarapa River, the east by the upper Yavari Miri River and the north by the upper Tamshiyacu River."
"The RCTT is divided into three distinct land use zones. These include 1) a buffer zone of subsistence use of approximately 160,000 ha, 2) a fully protected core area of approximately 160,000 ha, and 3) an area of permanent settlement which has few definite boundaries. The fully protected and subsistence areas fall within the official limits of the reserve and have no human settlements. The fully protected zone does not have extractive activities, whereas the subsistence zone is used by local residents of the permanent settlement zone for extraction of natural resources. Residents can not set up permanent settlements or clear land for agriculture within the boundaries of the subsistence use or fully protected zones. The zone of permanent settlements along the Tamshiyacu, Tahuayo, Yarapa and Yavari Miri rivers is adjacent to the reserve. This area encompasses the villages and is for intensive land-use activities, such as agriculture. The permanent settlement zone was not officially incorporated into the reserve to avoid conflict over land use practices, but is an important part of the RCTT management plans (Bodmer et al. 1990b)."
Dr Richard Bodmer, Department of Anthropology, University of Kent
The company I used for this grand adventure was Amazonian Expeditions, and they maintain one of the research stations used to track and study the primate species found in the reserve. Amazing company, they consistently win awards for service excellence and the work they do for conservation and charity.
More info on the reserve & conservation projects can be found at: http://www.perujungle.com/rctt.html
The lodge itself is rustic, without electricity, with a nod towards modern life being the availability of solar power to recharge camera batteries. The rooms were all screened in, and considering we are in THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE they are very comfortable. I lucked out day one in the main lodge with my own bathroom.
My first outing is a canoe trip into the bush. The wood canoes sit 5" above the water line, and I am wondering how easily they tip. Traveling this way is quiet though, and doesn't scare away the animals. Gerlo is in a short sleeve camouflage t-shirt, and it is killing me to see him sitting in front of me being eaten alive by mosquitoes. He prefers not to use repellent, has apparently already had malaria, and explains that for him the mosquitoes are just a slight pest.
I however, with my buttoned up long sleeve shirt and my long pants tucked into my socks, have slathered and sprayed the deet over every exposed surface.
Sightings today... a sloth sitting in a stupor high on a tree, a pigmy marmoset sitting in it's food tree, birds galore, and mosquitoes by the millions.
I gasp through a cold shower as I try to untangle the knots in my hair from our wild boat ride earlier in the day.
A home cooked vegetarian meal for dinner (yay!), and early to bed. Tomorrow is a transfer to the research station.
I managed to while away my last extended day in Trujillo, and the flight to Lima was angst free and uneventful. Knowing that I had an uncomfortable overnight planned on waiting room chairs, I took my time browsing the stores. LAN had given me a food voucher to compensate me for my "trouble" and I enjoyed Pizza in the food court.
As I have previously mentioned the Airport a Lima is a large, modern affair. The boutiques and restaurants are open 24/7, as is their Internet cafe. One last call to Air Canada proved fruitful, as my originally coveted return date had opened up, so once more I had a date change happening. E-mailed the tour company out of Iquitos I had reserved with and gave them the heads up that I would stay two more days... they responded giving me a couple of options as far as lodges. I told them I was too brain dead to make decisions and they should schedule my time as they best saw fit, seeing as they were the experienced party in the arrangement, and I but a novice amazonian explorer. I have to say they have been exceptional.
Then I went to spend my evening trying to sleep under bright lights on waiting room chairs.
My only real observation is that it is amazing how noisy an empty waiting room is...
Moderately queasy, and with big, dark bags under my eyes, I board the plane and we depart for the last "big adventure" of my trip.
A beautiful sunrise presented itself, and we then began our descent into Iquitos. We headed through 6 separate layers of cloud... some wispy, one popcorn like, and one that was pretty standard from above but that became like long rolls of dirty grey wool lined up in the sky when we got below it. My first sight of the Amazon River was like a fairy tale come true. Massive and winding, a dark pink colour in shocking relief to the green of the forests.
I was expecting to be hit with a wave of hot humid air when deplaning, but it must have been too early in the morning because I found the air to be pleasantly warm. Humid, yes, but I am a west coast girl and am fairly well acquainted with "moist"...
After a smooth airport pick up and transport I was introduced to my guide for the week, Gerlo. Speaking in almost perfect english (yes!) we wander over to the market to get breakfast before we are to board the speedboat to take us upriver to the lodge. Our little wander through the market (noisy, smelly and dirty) took on a yuck factor all of its' own when Gerlo pointed out that among the chopped up alligator for sale was a perfectly skinned whole monkey. I delayed breakfast consumption to a later time.
Quickly filling two water bottles with potable water, I was escorted to the now waiting speed boat and joined the cargo of goods to be delivered upriver. A lovely three and a half hours of zipping up the amazon, and then one of its tributaries ensued. Lots to see, including grey river dolphins, small villages, boats ferrying people/crops to the city and all manner of water lettuce, and all from a cushy, comfortable seat. Gerlo and I spent a bit of time getting to know each other while the winds did their best to whip my hair into a rats nest and my ears rang from the buffeting. We stopped and I registered with the game reserve warden, and was treated to the sight of naked little kids playing/swimming in the river. All good.
A wee bit of copywrite infringed info about the reserve where I spent my time:
"The Reserva Comunal Tamshiyacu-Tahuayo (RCTT)
The Reserva Comunal Tamshiyacu-Tahuayo is located in the northeastern Peruvian Amazon within the state of Loreto and extends over an area of 322,500 hectares. The reserve is situated in the upland forests which divide the valley of the Amazon from the valley of the Yavari... The reserve is bordered on the west by the upper Tahuayo and Qb. Blanco rivers, the south by the upper Yarapa River, the east by the upper Yavari Miri River and the north by the upper Tamshiyacu River."
"The RCTT is divided into three distinct land use zones. These include 1) a buffer zone of subsistence use of approximately 160,000 ha, 2) a fully protected core area of approximately 160,000 ha, and 3) an area of permanent settlement which has few definite boundaries. The fully protected and subsistence areas fall within the official limits of the reserve and have no human settlements. The fully protected zone does not have extractive activities, whereas the subsistence zone is used by local residents of the permanent settlement zone for extraction of natural resources. Residents can not set up permanent settlements or clear land for agriculture within the boundaries of the subsistence use or fully protected zones. The zone of permanent settlements along the Tamshiyacu, Tahuayo, Yarapa and Yavari Miri rivers is adjacent to the reserve. This area encompasses the villages and is for intensive land-use activities, such as agriculture. The permanent settlement zone was not officially incorporated into the reserve to avoid conflict over land use practices, but is an important part of the RCTT management plans (Bodmer et al. 1990b)."
Dr Richard Bodmer, Department of Anthropology, University of Kent
The company I used for this grand adventure was Amazonian Expeditions, and they maintain one of the research stations used to track and study the primate species found in the reserve. Amazing company, they consistently win awards for service excellence and the work they do for conservation and charity.
More info on the reserve & conservation projects can be found at: http://www.perujungle.com/rctt.html
The lodge itself is rustic, without electricity, with a nod towards modern life being the availability of solar power to recharge camera batteries. The rooms were all screened in, and considering we are in THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE they are very comfortable. I lucked out day one in the main lodge with my own bathroom.
My first outing is a canoe trip into the bush. The wood canoes sit 5" above the water line, and I am wondering how easily they tip. Traveling this way is quiet though, and doesn't scare away the animals. Gerlo is in a short sleeve camouflage t-shirt, and it is killing me to see him sitting in front of me being eaten alive by mosquitoes. He prefers not to use repellent, has apparently already had malaria, and explains that for him the mosquitoes are just a slight pest.
I however, with my buttoned up long sleeve shirt and my long pants tucked into my socks, have slathered and sprayed the deet over every exposed surface.
Sightings today... a sloth sitting in a stupor high on a tree, a pigmy marmoset sitting in it's food tree, birds galore, and mosquitoes by the millions.
I gasp through a cold shower as I try to untangle the knots in my hair from our wild boat ride earlier in the day.
A home cooked vegetarian meal for dinner (yay!), and early to bed. Tomorrow is a transfer to the research station.
Friday 6 March 2009
Tuesday 24 February 2009
Officially Unavailable...
No, not the "I have found a soul mate" unavailable. Just an "I am out of technologies reach" kind of unavailable.
I'll take lots of notes, and should be in touch around the 2nd and after my upcoming Amazonian Expedition!
I'll take lots of notes, and should be in touch around the 2nd and after my upcoming Amazonian Expedition!
Monday 23 February 2009
Sleeper busses... Chiclayo attractions
Yesterday was a long day.
I went to Chiclayo, which is a city to the north of Trujillo, also on the coast. It's big tourist draw is the Archaeological find known as The Lord of Sipan. This was an unraided tomb found containing said Lord, huge amounts of ornamental items (gold and silver) as well as his attendants, animal sacrifices, wives etc.
Chiclayo is a 3 hour bus ride from Trujillo. Each way . It turned out to be a 15 hour day. We saw the original pyramids and toured a museum dedicated to the artifacts and history of the find. I also toured a museum tracing the ceramics found in the area back some 5000 years.
We also wasted a lot of time driving around aimlessly, and my english tour again turned out to be spanish s o there was a lot of info lost in translation.
It rained. People seemed confused by the rain.
There were Turkey Vultures everywhere. This seemed to be appropriate given the amount of garbage piled up at the sides of the road. Me thinks there is no weekly garbage pick up here.
Lots more sugarcane. Many fields being burnt prior to harvest. Little bits of burnt black sugarcane floating in the air all around us. Tidy rows of sugarcane in all growth phases, and the irrigation system can be seen clearly in the fields just planted. Really Interesting.
Snowy White Egrets flying, picking at the planted fields, and grooming themselves in the sun.
Swollen rivers, families picnicking. Mosquitoes. Many fruit trees. A sugar factory.
Cars honking, motorized rickshaws, a huge, loud and crowded market.
I was ready for the sleeper bus to bring us home by the end of the day. Seriously reclining, with foot rests. And a movie.
Crackers and water all day. Restaurants closed when we got home.
Today I am frustrated because Lan cancelled my flight this morning (it was raining) and so I will miss my connection to Iquitos. I am now confirmed for the late night flight to Lima and will sit in the airport overnight in order to catch the first flight out to the Amazonian Jungle town of Iquitos at 5:00 am.
So now I have 10 hours, no plans, no hotel, and lots of luggage. I am frustrated.
Sigh.
We plan, God laughs. and all that.
I went to Chiclayo, which is a city to the north of Trujillo, also on the coast. It's big tourist draw is the Archaeological find known as The Lord of Sipan. This was an unraided tomb found containing said Lord, huge amounts of ornamental items (gold and silver) as well as his attendants, animal sacrifices, wives etc.
Chiclayo is a 3 hour bus ride from Trujillo. Each way . It turned out to be a 15 hour day. We saw the original pyramids and toured a museum dedicated to the artifacts and history of the find. I also toured a museum tracing the ceramics found in the area back some 5000 years.
We also wasted a lot of time driving around aimlessly, and my english tour again turned out to be spanish s o there was a lot of info lost in translation.
It rained. People seemed confused by the rain.
There were Turkey Vultures everywhere. This seemed to be appropriate given the amount of garbage piled up at the sides of the road. Me thinks there is no weekly garbage pick up here.
Lots more sugarcane. Many fields being burnt prior to harvest. Little bits of burnt black sugarcane floating in the air all around us. Tidy rows of sugarcane in all growth phases, and the irrigation system can be seen clearly in the fields just planted. Really Interesting.
Snowy White Egrets flying, picking at the planted fields, and grooming themselves in the sun.
Swollen rivers, families picnicking. Mosquitoes. Many fruit trees. A sugar factory.
Cars honking, motorized rickshaws, a huge, loud and crowded market.
I was ready for the sleeper bus to bring us home by the end of the day. Seriously reclining, with foot rests. And a movie.
Crackers and water all day. Restaurants closed when we got home.
Today I am frustrated because Lan cancelled my flight this morning (it was raining) and so I will miss my connection to Iquitos. I am now confirmed for the late night flight to Lima and will sit in the airport overnight in order to catch the first flight out to the Amazonian Jungle town of Iquitos at 5:00 am.
So now I have 10 hours, no plans, no hotel, and lots of luggage. I am frustrated.
Sigh.
We plan, God laughs. and all that.
Friday 20 February 2009
Should have gone to the beach. El Brujo..
So I went to a set of Ruins today called El Brujo. I had read all about how there was this incredible find, and that this was THE spot not to miss. See above. The beach would have been way better. A very long and bumpy ride through 114000 hectares of sugarcane brought us to a partially excavated site and a museum that has not yet opened. Spanish speaking guide. Trés disappointing.
Saw another few hairless peruvian dogs though. The highlight of the day. They apparently have a higher body temperature and were used as living hot water bottles for warmth at night.
Toured an old colonial home, took some pictures, and finally got some movement from Air Canada about a return flight.
Treated myself to a lemon daiquiri with dinner, and am headed off for a much needed shower, and to dreamland.
Mañana is show time... peruvian paso horses and marinara dancing.
Buenos Noches.
Saw another few hairless peruvian dogs though. The highlight of the day. They apparently have a higher body temperature and were used as living hot water bottles for warmth at night.
Toured an old colonial home, took some pictures, and finally got some movement from Air Canada about a return flight.
Treated myself to a lemon daiquiri with dinner, and am headed off for a much needed shower, and to dreamland.
Mañana is show time... peruvian paso horses and marinara dancing.
Buenos Noches.
Thursday 19 February 2009
Adobe dreams... Chan Chan
Last night, after throwing the towel in on my quest for real food, I settled for stale white cake and questionable pineapple juice from a street vendor. I figured that since I am already taking antibiotics the bugs won't make me sick. So far so good.
After this incredibly nutritious supper I wandered over to the main square, beautifully lit at night, and was delighted to discover that there were a variety of dancers putting on performances. Something tribal, something colonial and a wonderful couple doing the local dance, the marinara. Think tango, but with hankies waving and a very large hat used to great effect by el senior. I was enchanted.
I was the only gringo around. Obviously. I was the only adult female not wearing skin tight clothes and high heeled mules. Can't see giving that look a try so I will leave it to the locals.
Hit a hotel for breakfast this morning... pancakes!
Fun facts:
There are some 12,000 taxis in this little city. (I am pretty sure that each and every one of them has already had a go at running me down)
It only rains here once every few years... when el niño comes calling. This was supposed to be the year, but only a sprinkle or two so far. They are thankful because it usually comes with devastating floods and damage.
My Guide´s name is Marisa, she speaks really good english, and she dances. Quelle coincidence! Just like my neice.
My outfit for the day: Socks, sandals, long pants, a large buttoned up, long sleeved shirt and sunhat. I want no trouble from the sunburn gods, given that the meds. came with a warning that they make skin extra sun sensitive. I look really, really silly.
Then it was time to tour. Our group piled into an ancient van ("the bus") and headed out of the city. We went through a flourishing farming community. Corn, sugarcane, tomatoes, peppers... our tour guide informed us that this area is the largest Asparagus and Artichoke producing area in the country and exports all over the world. Cool. This is the desert, but they use an aqueduct system that channels water runoff from the mountains, and then divert it to the various fields. This practice has apparently been used successfully for more than 2000 years. Mostly with the same canals.
We also passed many brick making yards. Still using old fashioned back breaking labour, the drying bricks sit out in the sun in many, many tidy rows. So glad I don't know firsthand how that kind of labour feels.
We started our official tour with the Moche temples of the Sun and Moon. Very Cool. They apparently worshiped the god of the mountains, and the coloured 3-D wall decorations that have been uncovered depict various deities, animals and decapitations. They have uncovered some of the 4 out of 5 temples of the Moon that were built one on top of each other. When one king died, they filled in the temples and built a new one on top of the remains. This is also true of the temple of the Sun, although they have done no excavations. (or so I think)
These temples are located on high ground, abutting a mountain, and from this vantage point I am reminded of the Sinai. No pink in the mountains though, there are black mountains and beige sand. Looking over towards the sea there is a large area that is green and cultivated sitting in the middle of this desert. Think large kibbutz in the middle of nowhere.
We return to the hotel for lunch (jam sandwiches / leftovers from breakfast) and I have a nap.
My p.m. includes a smaller temple, the site museum for Chan Chan and the ruins of Chan Chan themselves. I will skip describing the first two, as they were fairly unremarkable.
Chan Chan on the other hand did not disappoint. Wow. Adobe design work, walls nine steps thick, 11 compounds, outer defensive walls that are 14 meters high with just one small entrance. Only one compound was open for viewing, the rest are waiting for exploration. Each time a new king came around they built a new compound/temple. Right in the middle is a natural spring fed aqueduct. The estimate is that there were 35,000 people living in the area during this period. Hope my pictures turn out well, because, like a good dream, there was too much to take in and remember.
We then went to a small beach town to see the reed boats used by the local fishermen. A wee letdown after the splendor of the ruins, but the surf was lovely and the water a much lighter colour than I expected of the Pacific. And I saw the cutest puppy...
Speaking of dogs, (were we?) they have THE coolest dogs here at the archaeological sights... Hairless peruvian dogs. They are so ugly they are beautiful. They are a nationally protected species because their numbers are dwindling, and they have proof they have been around as a breed for more than 2000 years. (I am totally fascinated).
Uncomfortable ride back in rickety old bus. Rain clouds over the distant mountains spell good fortune for the crops. Vegetable omelet for dinner. :)
Mañana is yet more ruins. I will probably subject you to all the details.
After this incredibly nutritious supper I wandered over to the main square, beautifully lit at night, and was delighted to discover that there were a variety of dancers putting on performances. Something tribal, something colonial and a wonderful couple doing the local dance, the marinara. Think tango, but with hankies waving and a very large hat used to great effect by el senior. I was enchanted.
I was the only gringo around. Obviously. I was the only adult female not wearing skin tight clothes and high heeled mules. Can't see giving that look a try so I will leave it to the locals.
Hit a hotel for breakfast this morning... pancakes!
Fun facts:
There are some 12,000 taxis in this little city. (I am pretty sure that each and every one of them has already had a go at running me down)
It only rains here once every few years... when el niño comes calling. This was supposed to be the year, but only a sprinkle or two so far. They are thankful because it usually comes with devastating floods and damage.
My Guide´s name is Marisa, she speaks really good english, and she dances. Quelle coincidence! Just like my neice.
My outfit for the day: Socks, sandals, long pants, a large buttoned up, long sleeved shirt and sunhat. I want no trouble from the sunburn gods, given that the meds. came with a warning that they make skin extra sun sensitive. I look really, really silly.
Then it was time to tour. Our group piled into an ancient van ("the bus") and headed out of the city. We went through a flourishing farming community. Corn, sugarcane, tomatoes, peppers... our tour guide informed us that this area is the largest Asparagus and Artichoke producing area in the country and exports all over the world. Cool. This is the desert, but they use an aqueduct system that channels water runoff from the mountains, and then divert it to the various fields. This practice has apparently been used successfully for more than 2000 years. Mostly with the same canals.
We also passed many brick making yards. Still using old fashioned back breaking labour, the drying bricks sit out in the sun in many, many tidy rows. So glad I don't know firsthand how that kind of labour feels.
We started our official tour with the Moche temples of the Sun and Moon. Very Cool. They apparently worshiped the god of the mountains, and the coloured 3-D wall decorations that have been uncovered depict various deities, animals and decapitations. They have uncovered some of the 4 out of 5 temples of the Moon that were built one on top of each other. When one king died, they filled in the temples and built a new one on top of the remains. This is also true of the temple of the Sun, although they have done no excavations. (or so I think)
These temples are located on high ground, abutting a mountain, and from this vantage point I am reminded of the Sinai. No pink in the mountains though, there are black mountains and beige sand. Looking over towards the sea there is a large area that is green and cultivated sitting in the middle of this desert. Think large kibbutz in the middle of nowhere.
We return to the hotel for lunch (jam sandwiches / leftovers from breakfast) and I have a nap.
My p.m. includes a smaller temple, the site museum for Chan Chan and the ruins of Chan Chan themselves. I will skip describing the first two, as they were fairly unremarkable.
Chan Chan on the other hand did not disappoint. Wow. Adobe design work, walls nine steps thick, 11 compounds, outer defensive walls that are 14 meters high with just one small entrance. Only one compound was open for viewing, the rest are waiting for exploration. Each time a new king came around they built a new compound/temple. Right in the middle is a natural spring fed aqueduct. The estimate is that there were 35,000 people living in the area during this period. Hope my pictures turn out well, because, like a good dream, there was too much to take in and remember.
We then went to a small beach town to see the reed boats used by the local fishermen. A wee letdown after the splendor of the ruins, but the surf was lovely and the water a much lighter colour than I expected of the Pacific. And I saw the cutest puppy...
Speaking of dogs, (were we?) they have THE coolest dogs here at the archaeological sights... Hairless peruvian dogs. They are so ugly they are beautiful. They are a nationally protected species because their numbers are dwindling, and they have proof they have been around as a breed for more than 2000 years. (I am totally fascinated).
Uncomfortable ride back in rickety old bus. Rain clouds over the distant mountains spell good fortune for the crops. Vegetable omelet for dinner. :)
Mañana is yet more ruins. I will probably subject you to all the details.
Wednesday 18 February 2009
Hot, hot, hot... finally in Trujillo
Ah, the equatorial sunshine!
I slept like a log, and awoke early for my first full day here in Trujillo. I spent the day popping in and out of the hostel for fan and re-hydration breaks, and to reapply sunscreen. This city is dazzling. The buildings in the main downtown square are all painted bright pastel or white colours, and have the moorish look of southern spain.
Which may explain why almost no one here seems to speak any english. Too bad my spanish classes turned out to be such a bust.
Today was a wandering day. Up and down streets, round and round. I think I have the lay of the land now, so to speak.
Last night was a search for food night. Wandered for an hour looking for something more than an ice cream stand. I was obviously wandering around THE shopping district, with streets choked with cars and pedestrians. Lots of clothes, electronics, banks, hardware stores etc.
Everything under the sun except food.
Ok, so by this time I the muffin I had eaten at the airport some 8 hours before was ancient history and I was ready to eat my arm. Just as I gave up and was headed back to the hostel for an energy bar I thankfully came across a diner and had a veggie omelet. Yay!
Had an energy bar for breakfast, and a veggie omelet for lunch. I am sensing a pattern here, no? This may not be the place I am going to pack back on some of the many pounds I have lost in the last month.
BTW... I notice that there are no stop signs at any of the intersections. Winner takes all it seems.
The sun is setting and I am going to stroll the main square again. Once I find dinner that is, my appetite has returned with a vengeance.
I slept like a log, and awoke early for my first full day here in Trujillo. I spent the day popping in and out of the hostel for fan and re-hydration breaks, and to reapply sunscreen. This city is dazzling. The buildings in the main downtown square are all painted bright pastel or white colours, and have the moorish look of southern spain.
Which may explain why almost no one here seems to speak any english. Too bad my spanish classes turned out to be such a bust.
Today was a wandering day. Up and down streets, round and round. I think I have the lay of the land now, so to speak.
Last night was a search for food night. Wandered for an hour looking for something more than an ice cream stand. I was obviously wandering around THE shopping district, with streets choked with cars and pedestrians. Lots of clothes, electronics, banks, hardware stores etc.
Everything under the sun except food.
Ok, so by this time I the muffin I had eaten at the airport some 8 hours before was ancient history and I was ready to eat my arm. Just as I gave up and was headed back to the hostel for an energy bar I thankfully came across a diner and had a veggie omelet. Yay!
Had an energy bar for breakfast, and a veggie omelet for lunch. I am sensing a pattern here, no? This may not be the place I am going to pack back on some of the many pounds I have lost in the last month.
BTW... I notice that there are no stop signs at any of the intersections. Winner takes all it seems.
The sun is setting and I am going to stroll the main square again. Once I find dinner that is, my appetite has returned with a vengeance.
Tuesday 17 February 2009
Travel - South American style
Yesterday was a b.e.a.u.t.i.f.u.l day. The weather gods in Cusco decided to play nice and I had one last great day in what is, when the sun shines, a beautiful city. Wandered around, window shopping ... you know, enjoying and soaking up the atmosphere.
This morning it was freezing and raining... Haha. I shivered through breakfast, very pleased that I was heading away. Of course a bit of cloud cover and rain makes for many cancelled LAN flights. Six to Lima alone. Mine was thankfully not one of them, although the airport was packed with those not so fortunate.
Now getting to the airport was an experience, albeit not as fascinating as the ride I just endured. But I digress.
The cab dutifully picked me up on time, although had my flight not been delayed I likely would have missed it. The driver went sooo far out of his way I was beginning to think he was going to DRIVE me to Lima. Set price or no, and considering just how close the airport is to the city centre, it was a grand city tour. Roadside markets, donkeys, churches, crumbling shacks, and more stray dogs than you can shake a stick at.
Pay airport tax, go through security (well, what passed for security) and then into the standing room only departure lounge area. Nice chat with rescheduled tourists from Victoria. Finally we board the plane and are off. I had a window seat (unusual for me) and had a great last view of the green mountains and lush patchwork farming valleys as we climbed into the heavens.
Chocolate cake and orange juice, and a lovely chat with a couple from Los Angeles. Before I could really think twice we were landing at the Lima airport, coming in low over the water, affording a great view of fleets of fishing boats, tankers, beaches, and a city sprawl filling up every visible space until the mountains took over.
Humid. Warm. Wonderful. Took off my fuzzy and rain jacket and smiled. Maybe it was the oxygen rich air or the sea breeze, but I felt much lighter on my feet.
What a change of pace and face. I stopped at Starbucks for tea and a muffin, and after a few minutes I realized that, except for the fact that everyone was speaking Spanish, it felt like I was sitting at Toronto Pearson. Everyones' skin colour had changed. Not an Andean Indian face to be seen. Gone were the high foreheads, forceful chins and prominent noses, a pity really because those faces usually came with a smile. Many too many very serious looking white folk. Tourists not included because they mostly looked confused.
Followed the prompters to gate number 13, and sat to wait for my departure. Some time later they called for boarding for Porto Mondanaldo, a jungle town. Hmmm. Go check the monitors and see that they have changed my departure gate to number 8. I hurry over, and am glad I did because my flight was boarding already. They would have been calling my name over the intercom, which I could not possibly have understood because the spanish and english messages were flying overhead at garbled warp speed.
The approach to Trujillo was startling. Lots of sand, and not much view of anything else. A palm tree or two, some brick walls and barbed wire. My ABSOLUTELY NOT LOST luggage showed up right on time and I headed out into the terminal. Except there wasn't one. Just a big parking lot and no taxis in sight. I rounded up a security guard, used my best ¨lost female¨ look, and the nice gentleman was off and running to find me a ride into the city.
And what a ride. In a car that you probably couldn't give to a teenager back home, I learned that in this town painted lines / lanes, one way streets, and stop signs mean absolutely nothing. As I was reflecting on this I became aware of the fact that the driver was using his emergency brakes as his stopping mechanism. Several very close calls later I put my life into the hands of fate and just held on for the ride. Passed what seemed like endless sand dunes that the driver pointed out as Chan Chan, although I hope that when I actually visit the site it will look more noteworthy.
After trying to get me to change my choice of hostels, he finally pulled up in front of a rather questionable looking building and let me out. Yes, this is the right place. Yes it had been recommended by Lonely Planet. Yes it was getting dark and I had no intention of beginning a search for alternatives. Good thing really, as I am close to the historical main square and once I actually got inside the premises they were much more promising. Lovely inner courtyard / garden and the room is not half bad. Not the Ritz to be sure, but for $18 a night what can you expect?
Did my unpacking and noticed that almost all my bottles and tubes had reacted in a very interesting way to the change in altitude. They all looked like someone tried to squish them. Just the opposite as when I got to Cusco they all looked like someone had blown them up like balloons.
Changed into my sandals and short sleeves.
And that leaves me here, typing away to cyberspace in case someone decides to check in with me.
So I survived my day of travel, and feeling tired and pleasantly warm I am going to head off to find some food, and have an early night.
This morning it was freezing and raining... Haha. I shivered through breakfast, very pleased that I was heading away. Of course a bit of cloud cover and rain makes for many cancelled LAN flights. Six to Lima alone. Mine was thankfully not one of them, although the airport was packed with those not so fortunate.
Now getting to the airport was an experience, albeit not as fascinating as the ride I just endured. But I digress.
The cab dutifully picked me up on time, although had my flight not been delayed I likely would have missed it. The driver went sooo far out of his way I was beginning to think he was going to DRIVE me to Lima. Set price or no, and considering just how close the airport is to the city centre, it was a grand city tour. Roadside markets, donkeys, churches, crumbling shacks, and more stray dogs than you can shake a stick at.
Pay airport tax, go through security (well, what passed for security) and then into the standing room only departure lounge area. Nice chat with rescheduled tourists from Victoria. Finally we board the plane and are off. I had a window seat (unusual for me) and had a great last view of the green mountains and lush patchwork farming valleys as we climbed into the heavens.
Chocolate cake and orange juice, and a lovely chat with a couple from Los Angeles. Before I could really think twice we were landing at the Lima airport, coming in low over the water, affording a great view of fleets of fishing boats, tankers, beaches, and a city sprawl filling up every visible space until the mountains took over.
Humid. Warm. Wonderful. Took off my fuzzy and rain jacket and smiled. Maybe it was the oxygen rich air or the sea breeze, but I felt much lighter on my feet.
What a change of pace and face. I stopped at Starbucks for tea and a muffin, and after a few minutes I realized that, except for the fact that everyone was speaking Spanish, it felt like I was sitting at Toronto Pearson. Everyones' skin colour had changed. Not an Andean Indian face to be seen. Gone were the high foreheads, forceful chins and prominent noses, a pity really because those faces usually came with a smile. Many too many very serious looking white folk. Tourists not included because they mostly looked confused.
Followed the prompters to gate number 13, and sat to wait for my departure. Some time later they called for boarding for Porto Mondanaldo, a jungle town. Hmmm. Go check the monitors and see that they have changed my departure gate to number 8. I hurry over, and am glad I did because my flight was boarding already. They would have been calling my name over the intercom, which I could not possibly have understood because the spanish and english messages were flying overhead at garbled warp speed.
The approach to Trujillo was startling. Lots of sand, and not much view of anything else. A palm tree or two, some brick walls and barbed wire. My ABSOLUTELY NOT LOST luggage showed up right on time and I headed out into the terminal. Except there wasn't one. Just a big parking lot and no taxis in sight. I rounded up a security guard, used my best ¨lost female¨ look, and the nice gentleman was off and running to find me a ride into the city.
And what a ride. In a car that you probably couldn't give to a teenager back home, I learned that in this town painted lines / lanes, one way streets, and stop signs mean absolutely nothing. As I was reflecting on this I became aware of the fact that the driver was using his emergency brakes as his stopping mechanism. Several very close calls later I put my life into the hands of fate and just held on for the ride. Passed what seemed like endless sand dunes that the driver pointed out as Chan Chan, although I hope that when I actually visit the site it will look more noteworthy.
After trying to get me to change my choice of hostels, he finally pulled up in front of a rather questionable looking building and let me out. Yes, this is the right place. Yes it had been recommended by Lonely Planet. Yes it was getting dark and I had no intention of beginning a search for alternatives. Good thing really, as I am close to the historical main square and once I actually got inside the premises they were much more promising. Lovely inner courtyard / garden and the room is not half bad. Not the Ritz to be sure, but for $18 a night what can you expect?
Did my unpacking and noticed that almost all my bottles and tubes had reacted in a very interesting way to the change in altitude. They all looked like someone tried to squish them. Just the opposite as when I got to Cusco they all looked like someone had blown them up like balloons.
Changed into my sandals and short sleeves.
And that leaves me here, typing away to cyberspace in case someone decides to check in with me.
So I survived my day of travel, and feeling tired and pleasantly warm I am going to head off to find some food, and have an early night.
Sunday 15 February 2009
A retreat from the cold... leaving Cusco
Finally!!! I am out of bed and feeling much better.
Festival continues, water abounds... seems not much has changed in the last few days.
I have made arrangements to leave Cusco and head to the coast. I am ready to go, and the doctor thinks it is a good idea to get warm and dry. Today I did a wee bit of shopping. found a nice shawl for mom, and now all I need to do is get it to her. Hopefully before her birthday.
So my plans for the next two days:
Tomorrow, more shopping and a search for Fedex.
Tuesday I fly to Lima and then right back out to Trujillo, a city on the northern coast. I could have taken the bus, but that would have involved tackling the Lima Bus station(s) and then an 8 - 9 hour bus ride. I decided that the $60 plane ticket was a much saner choice.
I am not sure where I am staying yet, but have the names of several good hostels. Then I will arrange to see Chan Chan (another set of ruins) and spend a couple of days on the beach... Who knows? The world is my oyster and all that.
Right now I have reservations to head to Iquitos on Feb23 for a week. I am determined to see snakes and big spiders. If I happen to see toucans and monkeys as well, all the better. Hopefully whatever is left of this mega-cold will have gone away by this time, because I really don`t want to head to the Amazon sick.
Last night we got a bit of a surprise... an earthquake hit about 8pm. Short and sharp. No damage done, but it sure did get everyone talking. I read today that they had a much worse one on the north coast yesterday, but don´t know yet about damages. I am going to have to work on my drop and roll though... just stood there stupidly while my brain tried to compute that the ground was jumping.
That is about it for today. I hear the trumpet sounding to lower the flags in the main square, so must run off and play tourist again.
Hi to mom, and I hope she eats lots more ice cream.
Festival continues, water abounds... seems not much has changed in the last few days.
I have made arrangements to leave Cusco and head to the coast. I am ready to go, and the doctor thinks it is a good idea to get warm and dry. Today I did a wee bit of shopping. found a nice shawl for mom, and now all I need to do is get it to her. Hopefully before her birthday.
So my plans for the next two days:
Tomorrow, more shopping and a search for Fedex.
Tuesday I fly to Lima and then right back out to Trujillo, a city on the northern coast. I could have taken the bus, but that would have involved tackling the Lima Bus station(s) and then an 8 - 9 hour bus ride. I decided that the $60 plane ticket was a much saner choice.
I am not sure where I am staying yet, but have the names of several good hostels. Then I will arrange to see Chan Chan (another set of ruins) and spend a couple of days on the beach... Who knows? The world is my oyster and all that.
Right now I have reservations to head to Iquitos on Feb23 for a week. I am determined to see snakes and big spiders. If I happen to see toucans and monkeys as well, all the better. Hopefully whatever is left of this mega-cold will have gone away by this time, because I really don`t want to head to the Amazon sick.
Last night we got a bit of a surprise... an earthquake hit about 8pm. Short and sharp. No damage done, but it sure did get everyone talking. I read today that they had a much worse one on the north coast yesterday, but don´t know yet about damages. I am going to have to work on my drop and roll though... just stood there stupidly while my brain tried to compute that the ground was jumping.
That is about it for today. I hear the trumpet sounding to lower the flags in the main square, so must run off and play tourist again.
Hi to mom, and I hope she eats lots more ice cream.
Thursday 12 February 2009
Fun and Frackus in Cusco
It is festival time in Cusco.
The locals have a thing about fireworks... they set them off by the dozen all through the day. Fun really, until they go off so close that you think you should dive under a table. Marching bands do the rounds nightly, and the kids are getting their celebrating done too. They are running around with water guns and are not really discriminating about who gets wet. I have been warned about buckets of water flying, which is apparently part of the charm of the festivities, but so far I have been spared.
Believe me, there is enough water coming out of the sky to keep us drenched. Buckets extra not needed.
Yesterday was interesting. Some big demonstration in the main street/plaza. Around a corner come trucks and police in full riot gear bounded out. Crowd dispersed without incident and the police all hopped back into their trucks and roared off. Not something I see every day. Actually not something I have seen before period.
Most of the officers were very handsome... but young, alas.
I have just about nailed down my plans for the next few weeks, and will finalize them and let you know. In a couple of days. That is how many the doctor has sent me back to bed for, with antibiotics. The microbe I thought was done with me decided to come back and bite me on the butt one more time.
So I am off to snooze and be bored.
Totally unrelated: the finger puppet boy has decided he is my new best friend, and whenever I enter the plaza he appears by my side. Cute really.
The locals have a thing about fireworks... they set them off by the dozen all through the day. Fun really, until they go off so close that you think you should dive under a table. Marching bands do the rounds nightly, and the kids are getting their celebrating done too. They are running around with water guns and are not really discriminating about who gets wet. I have been warned about buckets of water flying, which is apparently part of the charm of the festivities, but so far I have been spared.
Believe me, there is enough water coming out of the sky to keep us drenched. Buckets extra not needed.
Yesterday was interesting. Some big demonstration in the main street/plaza. Around a corner come trucks and police in full riot gear bounded out. Crowd dispersed without incident and the police all hopped back into their trucks and roared off. Not something I see every day. Actually not something I have seen before period.
Most of the officers were very handsome... but young, alas.
I have just about nailed down my plans for the next few weeks, and will finalize them and let you know. In a couple of days. That is how many the doctor has sent me back to bed for, with antibiotics. The microbe I thought was done with me decided to come back and bite me on the butt one more time.
So I am off to snooze and be bored.
Totally unrelated: the finger puppet boy has decided he is my new best friend, and whenever I enter the plaza he appears by my side. Cute really.
Wednesday 11 February 2009
Bordom sets in...
I am pretty sure I have had enough of Cusco... about 2 weeks ahead of schedule.
There are only so many quaint, cobbled, hilly streets to walk, and many too many in your face buskers. I went to two museums today. One dedicated to Pre Incan art artifacts, which was interesting... although the english blurbs about each piece were WAY over the top. Then there was the "archbishops art collection". Should have known to skip that one, but alas I subjected myself to more gold filigree and images of the Inca being enlightened into the catholic church.
Yuck
Apart from that there has been spanish lessons and searches for interesting tours to join. Still not sure about the time/place of an amazon visit. The campus in the sacred valley is open again, although my enthusiasm is waning. We´ll see.
Lots of rain, a bit of sun, and what seems like (sometimes) a hundred partying twenty-somethings all around me.
Tomorrow I think I´ll brave the market for some strawberry jam to go with my bread in the morning.
Lunch time, and then classes. Feels like time to move on...
There are only so many quaint, cobbled, hilly streets to walk, and many too many in your face buskers. I went to two museums today. One dedicated to Pre Incan art artifacts, which was interesting... although the english blurbs about each piece were WAY over the top. Then there was the "archbishops art collection". Should have known to skip that one, but alas I subjected myself to more gold filigree and images of the Inca being enlightened into the catholic church.
Yuck
Apart from that there has been spanish lessons and searches for interesting tours to join. Still not sure about the time/place of an amazon visit. The campus in the sacred valley is open again, although my enthusiasm is waning. We´ll see.
Lots of rain, a bit of sun, and what seems like (sometimes) a hundred partying twenty-somethings all around me.
Tomorrow I think I´ll brave the market for some strawberry jam to go with my bread in the morning.
Lunch time, and then classes. Feels like time to move on...
Sunday 8 February 2009
Flags and Sardines... Pisac
It is Sunday and I think I am finally on the other side of whatever little microbe made its way into my system. I am still coughing, and my voice is a as wobbly as an adolescent boy, but I am much better. Unfortunately I missed most of my spanish classes during the week, so will do a restart tomorrow.
Yesterday I took a chance on a salad. A big green lettuce and roasted veggies wonder. Hope the tummy gods will look kindly upon me, but I did not think I could go another day without fresh vegetables, despite the warnings. So far so good.
Today I went to a town called Pisaq with a few of the ¨kids¨from school. I was impressed. There were the expected ruins, and once again, stairs, stairs, stairs. My legs managed just fine. Didn't take me terribly long to realize my lungs weren't so understanding. I was quite glad that this town is located at a much lower elevation than Cusco.
Huffing and puffing along I kept going. The ruins at Pisaq had quite a different look to them (stairs notwithstanding), with most of the rock used in the walls of the upper fortress being red, and lots of red mud to hold them together. Once again I was amazed at the extent of what used to be their mountain agriculture. Terraces and canal systems that now lie fallow. Food would be far more plentiful if they were put back to work.
We took a taxi up to the ruins, and decided to meander around on our own and not get a guide. Plenty of choices turn wise, and having a guide might have spared us a bad choice or two. We ended up scrambling down the terraces bordering town and I am sure there was an easier and shorter option.
Had a brief gander at the big market in town everyone talks about, but it just seemed to offer the same old, same old. I was hoping that I would be able to find more unique and handmade items, but alas, I came home empty handed. (my wallet says thanks).
Grabbed a bite to eat at a place that had a huge guinea pig fortress as it's focal point. Interesting.
We used the public bus to get to Pisac and back, and it was quite an experience. Getting there was not a huge adventure, but coming back Pisac is just a stop on a longer route and each and every bus was packed. Or so we thought. When each bus stopped we watched a mass of people appear, seemingly out of the blue, and shove themselves into the bus. Most of the buses left with people still hanging out the open door.
Not something 4 touristy types were quite prepared for, but we gave it our best shot. The first 3 attempts were laughable, with the locals easily tossing us out of the way. Fine. We would wait for perhaps a less crowded bus that might come along? So we stand at the side of the road, in the middle of a market (noise, dirt, general chaos), and then on cue the skies open up and it starts pouring. Deluge pouring. Now the day so far had been sunscreen and hats required. Hot. Very hot. Wish we had a swimming pool hot. So we were rather surprised to find ourselves soaked to the skin, still waiting for a bus.
When that next bus came around the corner, we made sure we were at the front of the line (my apologies to those that got in our way...). We still had to stand the entire hour long ride, but we were in the bus and on our way. A bus packed like... yes, sardines. Mostly wet sadines. I did have a good view out the windows, so I got to enjoy the incredible scenery along the way. Not necessarily when the top heavy bus was taking hairpin curves up the cliff side of the mountains, but I tried not to dwell on that.
With a deep sigh of relief we filed off the bus and walked back to the main square in Cusco. I made straight for my little perch on a very skinny second floor balcony at the pub overlooking the square, so I could have a small bite to eat while watching all the goings on. Spent a bit of time contemplating the mass of tourists wandering around, and wondered what the locals must think of us all. Taking the same pictures, asking the same questions, over and over. An anthill of frenetic activity with no productive purpose. Then I snapped out of my stupor and joined the masses watching the daily spectacle of soldiers lowering the flag at sunset.
Ah well, I am a tourist, no?
I am now going to haul my cough and exhaustion up the hill to my residence, have a nice cup of tea and then dive into my bed.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
