A slight bit of backtracking…
The Monday of my travel was my last day with the kids. Their new teacher came and observed the kids
and my lesson, to facilitate her entry into their learning cycle. Knowing that this was going to occur I had
written out notes on the topics covered so far, suggestions for each child, the
games and songs the kids had become used to.
First observation she made was that I spelled colour with a u. “But that’s British spelling… wait, you guys
are under the crown correct? You still
have a Queen.” Brilliant.
Any way I am sure she and the kids will get along
famously.
I left a bag of excess stuff at the hostal which I will pick
up as I pass through on the return journey.
Let Carlos know of my decision to forgo the three day mountain trek, as
I truly have had enough of being cold for the time being.
Back to my wonderful bus experience…
When the music suddenly stopped I sighed in relief, and the
first of several movies started playing.
Again no volume opt out. Movie
one was a very strange oriental flick involving a poor young student, bullying
and some kind of tiny extraterrestrial fuzzy unit. Very strange.
Next movie was Taken (with Liam Neeson), which I have had the pleasure
of viewing in Spanish on every bus trip taken here for the past 4 years. Good movie, just viewed at least once too
much.
Long distance trips often involve on board service and
meals… this time it was beef & rice.
Not so helpful for me. Never mind
I had bread, yogurt and oreo cookies.
So we made a pit stop in Pedro Ruiz, everyones (seemingly)
mandatory transit stop town. We picked
up a few passengers and headed on our way.
Heading out of town we headed down… and down, and down. Slowly and carefully, never breaking 60 km/hr
but mostly the onboard speedometer hovered between 20 – 30 km/hr.
The government established mandatory maximums for passenger
busses after some pretty horrific accidents (many fatalities), and drivers are
required to let passengers know at the beginning of the trip what the maximum
is, and to encourage passengers to report drivers that exceed them. There are digital speedometers placed within
eyesight.. and the figures change from white to red if the maximums are
exceeded. No worry on this trip. Only once did I see the red, and only for a
moment on a flat section well out of the mountains.
Hard to describe just how bad the road must have been as we
passed between small settlements as the rain began, but the slow speed and many
bumpy sections of previous wash outs were a hint.
Then, after winding back up for quite a while the behemoth
of a bus slowed to a crawl. Followed by
a full stop. Peering out at the view
afforded by the circle of light made by the headlights, it looked like we had
hit a mudslide area. Deep furrows of
tire tracks in the mud and rocks on the road.
Back up and try again. Nope.
And this is the good road?
Just what must the bad road look like after months of rain?
Smaller vehicles seem to be able to slide their way through
this section, but larger and heavier ones were stuck. Almost an hour later larger vehicles started
to pass headed the other way. Seems only
one side of the road was passable, which creates a problem when there is a
backload of such vehicles in each direction.
Somebody must have finally taken control of the situation, and we
eventually made our way through.
More twists and turns, and from what I can see through the
darkness this road is plenty dangerous enough for me. The mountain silhouettes look formidable and
the canyons and crevices deep and frightening.
There were many sections of road that had softened and warning tape and
signs were plentiful in areas where shoulders had simply fallen away.
Despite this, and probably thanks to the combination of
Gravol and sleeping pill, I actually managed
to fall asleep headed out of the mountain and awoke on the flat coastal
plane just outside of the city of Chiclayo.
Our bus made a stop here to drop passengers off and we quickly departed
on the final stretch toward Trujillo,
end of the line for this lovely 15 hour interlude.
Wait… did I mention that it is actually easier to use the on
board toilet on flat stretches of highway?
Well it is, just remember to bring your own toilet paper… there are no
guarantees as I found out.
The road between Chiclayo and
Trujillo is the
Pan American Highway,
running more or less north/south and skirting the coastline. Glimpses were had of the ocean. Through the rain. Yep.
Rain. In the dessert. You know, where I was to find sun. Thankfully the equatorial heat was evident as
the sun rose.
After 6 tries I found a cab to take me from the bus depot to
the Hostal, bed was waiting, and the rest of my day was spent pretty much
comatose. Not enough sleep. Nerve wracking ride. And the much welcomed heat I had travelled to
far to find.
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