I got warm today… seriously warm. Cajamarca has perhaps the best hot springs I have ever
had the pleasure to visit. Very popular
with the locals, I paid the grand sum of $5.00 and got a private pool with
piped in water, and a pleasure swim in the public pool. After weeks of showers I can’t begin to
explain just how heavenly my afternoon was.
As for the balance of my time here in this Northern Peruvian
city, other than a city tour I have been rather lazy. The sun shines warmly in the mornings, and
then the afternoon has brought rains and thunderstorms. Rain rain go away. Seriously.
There exists here the continual onslaught of honking and car exhaust
found in most Peruvian cities, and as I am near the main square the traffic
seems never ending and street crossings are death defying. You know, normal.
The city itself is smallish, about 200,000 in
population. It has the feel of Cusco about it, with low adobe brick roofs huddled
together in this high altitude valley.
We sit at about 9000 feet above sea level (as usual I have the headache
to prove it), with the climate being similar to Chachapoyas.
It is also a fairly well to do city thanks to the mining
going on a couple of hours north of here.
Not that everyone is happy about the mine… this is the area of Peru that
has seen some very well publicised protests, especially with regards to a
massive new mining project planned nearby.
With this issue far from settled (the president of Peru had to
step down because of a perceived conflict of interest) it seems that the
protests and groundswell against such international mining conglomerates has
spread to areas across the country.
Before I tell you about my splendid trip up into the
highlands I should catch you up on what’s been going on since my arrival on the
Coast last week.
As I mentioned previously my first day in Trujillo was a write off. Seriously dizzy and disoriented. Exhausted.
So about 24 hours after I arrived I finally managed to leave my room and
go look for food and water. And I changed
rooms because the one they gave me upon arrival was dark and basically
ugly.
Day 2 was better, and between naps I scoped out the lay of
the city and made my plans for the week.
Return of the ruins, part 1 more or less.
The coastal regions of Peru are hot and dry, with large
swaths of desert and sand dunes. Trujillo is on the
northern coast and I had chosen to return here because I knew this was a place
I could finally get warm. And warm it
was… hot, humid and Cloudy? This area of
Peru
sees a miniscule average annual rainfall, but for me it rained every day. Go figure.
One day it rained so hard I had a mini lake in my room. The city (and hotel apparently)
infrastructure is just not designed to handle these amounts of rain.
As a city it is a busy bustling business centre. People in suits, celphones and briefcases in
hand. It is also loud, polluted and
filled with kamikaze, honking obsessed drivers.
Still don’t know why they bother to paint lanes on the roads, and just how anyone survives the traffic
circles here is still a mystery to me.
There were few corner stores to nip into to buy water etc.,
but there was one smallish supermarket on the main Pizzaro street pedestrian walkway just
around the corner from the hostal.
Vegetarian food? Wait while I try
and control my mirth. Eggs, eggs, eggs.
Last time I was here their beautiful main square featured
entertainment in the main square in the evenings, but there was none to be
found this year. Slight disappointment,
but no biggie.
I was delighted to find the English speaking guide from my
last trip, Marisa, who is a delight and made my various expeditions informative
and enjoyable. First up was a walking
city tour, which introduced me to some interesting background to the city. It was in Trujillo
that the Spanish first arrived in Peru. It was from here that they eventually
conquered, and then settled the Incan territories to the north, south and
inland. This city reflects that colonial
splendour, with lovely, lively painted adobe homes adorned with white iron
window and door grates fashioned after fine Spanish lace.
These original homes
were long and feature several open courtyards, some of which are open for
tourists. We passed a beauty, which
Marisa explained is now a Private Club… and apparently if you don’t have the
correct pedigree it won’t matter how much money you have, you won’t be
welcomed. Hmmm.
We also viewed the cities original water filtering area
ruins, now protected by a glass enclosure and surrounded by a pretty plaza. The original city was protected by a high
wall, and there are still 2 sections remaining… lone sentries to a time long
past.
Nowadays, the streets surrounding the historical colonial
centre are a maze of markets featuring all manor of things, but shoes are
everywhere… this being apparently a huge local industry. The large local malls are located further
outside the town centre.
I toured Mochi and Chimu ruins and found it extraordinary
the amount of work that has been done in the last 4 years. Inch by inch history is being uncovered. At his point there are over 400 years worth
of archaeological sights to explore, and with more discoveries being made
regularly that list just gets longer.
When people think of Peru they think of Inca, yet they
occupy only a fraction of the cultural history of this country. With the first ruins and remains dating back 12,000
years there more than a dozen documented pre Incan cultures. It has been fascinating viewing the sights
and artefacts throughout my travels.
More details of which I will regale you with next time. I have only so much wind at a time…
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