Like a comfortable pair of shoes, the routine here in Chacha
is easy to slip back into. Lunch with
Jose and Donna, Dinner with Carlos and Janet, sitting around the Amazonas and
enjoying the world going by. The weather has finally turned, which means
some sun every day… although the rain showers still plague me.
Took a stroll back up the road to Levanto, prepared to
battle the dogs again. Luck was with me
because when I got to the same stretch of land that produced the aggressive
dogs last time, the farmer was close to the road and called the sweet things
off before they could go all pack on me.
Thus spared the trauma of another dog attack I continued up the road
enjoying the scenery.
What I was not spared was the sight of an adorable (and I
think abandoned) puppy by the side of the road… oh, so tentatively wagging its’
tail and bobbing it’s head as if to say “I’m scared, take me home please”.
Heart strings tugged, I made sure to check on the little guy
on the way back down the road. This time
he was sound asleep, and tears in my eyes I kept on going. I had no idea how I would find the wee one a
home, even should I have taken him.
Back at the hostal I asked all around if someone might be willing to
take the pup home, with no ready takers.
About 8:00 pm I had had enough. I just couldn’t stand the thought that the
little guy would be afraid and cold all night.
Flashlight in hand to try and see the night darkened roadside up I went
in search of said orphan. Looked for two
hours to no avail. The guilt I felt all
the way back to the hostal was painful, and I felt I had somehow failed a
test. I went back twice more the next
day, but can only hope that his incredible cuteness softened someone else’s
heart and he now has a good home.
So what have I been doing since? Not much, although I did join in on a tour of
Kuelep and finally made it to the second platform of Gocta falls. Both these were done in the company of the
warm hearted Brazilian couple that had helped out on the bus ride from Trujillo to
Cajamarca. After running in to Leandro
and Luana meandering up the road beside the hostal we spent time together for
the next few days until their departure back to the coast to find some sun.
I so enjoy it when travel connections happen and create a
better whole.
The most remarkable thing about revisiting the ruins at
Kuelep was listening to the differing explanations about the cultural class
setup, and meanings behind the various buildings etc. Our fluently English speaking guide was earnest
and specific, but I was left with many questions because of the discrepancy. The truth of the matter is that the
conclusions drawn are all hypotheses, and it is anyones guess what the truth
is. A few of us had some fun making up
our own explanations… and yes, we got quite silly.
The road up to the ruins was certainly in better condition
than a few years back. Much grading and
widening had occurred, and we had a fabulous driver (Magno) who never once had
us shaking in our boots. But because of
the heavy rains the night before the trip took much longer than normal, which
had us forgoing a stop or two in favour of a rolling explanation. The
river was running incredibly high, with sections of road flooded. There were also a couple of landslide areas
which tried to block our way, but the road repair crew was out full strength
and we managed to make it. We made a
quick stop in one of the small towns enroute to place our lunch orders, and
veggie options were available.
New this year was information about a discovery of an area
of temples and tombs found in a cliff area just below the main Kuelep
ruins. Unfortunately it was not possible
for us to get down and view them.
The path up to the ruins was in much better shape than last
time, all stone walkways and stairs… finally it seems the governments are
sending some money this way to increase the tourism sector. It
looked for a few minutes like the clouds were going to overtake us and limit
our view, but as happens often here in the “valley of the clouds” they just
whiffed on by.
Bromeliad filled trees were everywhere, and here and there
were long dangly orchids just preparing to bloom. Again I was filled with the sense of history
waiting to be discovered, as much of the area awaits clearing and ruins are
hidden from clear viewing by vegetation. There was an entire section opened to the
public that I had not been able to see previously… can’t remember the reason. Very impressive stonework and community
organization. Several times I took the
opportunity to peek over the edge of the ruins to the cliffs below. Definitely defendable. Shudder worthy.
There were areas dotted throughout the fortress where human
bones were visible through small gaps between the stones, an oddly
cylindrically shaped building unlike any other on site, a compass stone that
was incredibly accurate when tested against a modern day version, and what we
were told were guinea pig storage areas.
Again, subject to interpretation.
At one point it was suggested as a joke that they must have
been cannibals, with all the pits containing human bones. Really, who knows? Just
as much merit as the three family theory, the incan conquest stories, honorary
burial site theory, and pick a theory about why there were so many bones found
scattered on the surface of one area of the ruins.
Did miss the huge flock of parrots I saw last time… there
were only a scattered few chasing around the treetops.
On the way down from the ruins we stopped for lunch and,
thankfully, a bathroom break. There was
a cute black dog that kept coming around, politely asking for leftovers. Of course he got some from me… I snuck a
guinea pit head off the plate next to me and “dropped” it.
There is a plan to put a cable car up to the ruins from New
Tingo, just up from the main road, and after a total of almost seven hours
sitting on my ass in a minibus to go around and up the valley this plan has my
vote. I’m just saying.
No comments:
Post a Comment