Arequipa

It has been a gift of a day here for day one in Arequipa. Beautiful tropical sunshine buffered by a cool high altitude breeze.

Had a very relaxed day yesterday, a noon checkout meant that bags were left at the front desk of the hostal while a final turn was taken around the Miraflores district of Lima. I was totally surprised by how quiet the area was on a Sunday. It was actually enjoyable, provided you didn’t want to shop… most of the stores and cafes were closed.

The mists rolled in off the sea early and it is truly surprising how much it drops the temperature. Found a comfy spot on the patio and waited for the taxi driver pick up.

A swift ride out to the airport, friendly Star Peru check in, and then Starbucks was the next target. Whiled away a two hour wait before boarding, had a cloudy take off, some mediocre snacks and a very smooth landing an hour or so later.

The cab pulled up in front of the hostal, which didn’t look like anything particularly special but once inside opened up to a lovely lobby, attended by one of the friendliest and most helpful front desk staff that I have ever had the pleasure of dealing with. The room is nice, although it doesn’t have the ambience of the El Patio in Lima.

A full English cable tv selection seduced me until about 1am, at which time it was to dreamland I did go. I awoke to glorious sunshine coming in the window, checked my watch, and seeing 6:15 went promptly back to sleep. Should have paid attention to the visual clue, because it turns out that my super cheap, I don’t care if it gets stolen watch has finally given up the ghost. Thankfully the lady cleaning up in the breakfast area was kind enough to serve a breakfast at 11, when 10 is the cut off time.

After a stroll in the historical centre of town and taking photos, I enjoyed a tour of the Santa Catalina Convent. Built in 1571 it has been expanded and renovated throughout the years and still houses a functioning Convent of 20 nuns… at present the youngest is 17 and the most elderly is 90something. The latter has seen great changes… from living in privilege to Spartan minimalistic communality, and then in 1970 to living communally but not in isolation… there is now access to music and television.

According to the English speaking guide, the custom for Peruvian Spanish aristocratic families assigned very rigid roles to their children. All second born children, male or female, were given over to the church. So somewhere between the ages of 12 and 16, dowries paid and trousseaus delivered, all were to be delivered to the church to live out the rest of their lives as either nuns or priests. In return for the generous dowry (approximately $20,000. today) the young nuns were able to live in relative comfort, enjoyed the use of the luxurious dowry items, and were allowed servants and/or slaves to attend them. At one time there were 200 nuns and 300 to tend to them living in what was a small city, itself located within the confines of historic Arequipa.

At some point the discrepancy between the vows of poverty and the lives lived in the monastery became too much for the Church, which expelled the servants and slaves, took away all possessions save a bed and chamber pot, and decreed that nuns from that point on live communally.

I can’t help but wonder if the good nuns ever harboured any resentment for losing their privileges. I would, but then I am no nun… and it is a bit late now, isn’t it.

Arequipa is in an active seismic zone, and the area is ringed by volcanoes. The most famous is El Misty, a perfectly coned beauty that is now considered active, following an eight point something earthquake a decade ago. No expectation of imminent eruption, but it’s now a sleeping giant. It looks magnificent.

After Briget Jones’ Diary will come dinner, then will head back to dreamland. I am coming down with a cold or something, and since I am soon heading back to Cusco and I don’t want a repeat of last time when I spent more time sick than sightseeing.

Hope the blue skies and sunshine continue tomorrow.