It has been one of those Chachapoyan delightful days.
The big plan for today was to take my students to the market so we could review and practice fruits and vegetables etc., and then head back to my haven to write.
At slightly past the designated hour (Spanish small town time) we met at the plaza in front of my hostal, and meandered down and over to a large open area filled with people from local farms bringing their produce to market. Huge sacks of potatoes, beets, corn, hot peppers, peas, green beans, a rainbow of not yet dried beans, baby ducks, quail, chickens, kittens? (I am assured they are not eaten) guinea pigs, and more. Add in hawkers of sweaters, sneakers, clothes, etc... a wonder it was.
No hats though, which was a shame because who knew it would be my first full day of high mountain sun?
And I forgot my sunscreen.
Shopping and field trip completed, I was invited back to a students’ house for lunch, which I happily accepted..
Have I talked at all about the generosity and friendliness of the people here? They have little, but what they have they are happy to share with guests.
I chopped vegetables etc, which was nice because it made me less of a guest and more of a friend. Lunch was served when Dora’s husband Juan came home. (most people here work on the am open, close for siesta, open evening schedule). We all sat down to a lovely meal of soup, rice with veggies, fried egg … picked fresh from the chicken in courtyard… , salad and huge yummy red grapes for desert. Juan is a guide here, has been for years, and is presently the head of the local Guiding Association.
We had a great conversation about all the off the beaten track areas near here, and his studies, plans, and the people who have moved to Chachapoyas from Britain, Australia, and Canada that have become part of the promotional / planning team for tourism and adventure travel. Interesting.
We talked orchids and birds, and he brought out his Peru bird book (the same one I have), which I perused it to see if I could find the hummingbirds from last Saturday.
From another student that dropped in an invitation was issued to come to a dance school performance in the evening, so I headed home for my siesta to recuperate… see above, too much sun, bright red cheeks. More wrinkles.
The dance was the same one that captivated me in Trujillo a couple of years ago. What fun it was to see it as a work in progress.
Voluminous brightly coloured Spanish skirts and matching shirts, lace, eyelet, embroidery and beading. Hair in buns topped with flowers, fresh and silk. Makeup and sparkles. Long dangling earrings.
Boys decked out in white pants and shirts, replete with shiny black shoes, waist sashes and kerchiefs. And to top it off for the girls and boys, large white handkerchiefs waiting to be waived with great flourish. It is these and the boy’s large straw hats that set this dance apart.
The evening started with a parade down the street and around the main square, accompanied by a small brass band playing the appropriate tunes.
Back at the hall the real fun began. Off came the girls’ shoes, strictly barefoot for this dance. Flourishes, dips, skirts held high to show elaborate underskirts and plenty of fancy footwork were on show, and all the while those white hankies were a’twirlin. Sure was fun watching all the little wee ones give it their best shot.
The last dance of the evening had the male dance teacher come out and really show us what this dance is all about. Wow, what a performance… like watching a peacock in full show.
There I was, surrounded by a great group of people while the director read out names, and students collected their end of year gifts. Sweet wine was served, toasts were raised and I realised I had once again been part of the dance recital scene.
Short walk home, and I find myself writing with me eyes closed, head resting on my raised knee… that is how beat I am.
I think I would kill for a bath. A cold shower is just not happening tonight.
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