Long, winding, long winded thoughts

I once again chickened out and made reservations with a hostal that includes airport pick up. Slightly more expensive, so I will relocate after I have checked out the cheaper options.

Today was airport day, and after finally figuring out how to cram my stuff into the backpack off I went. We took the sea expressway, with impressive views of the bluffs for which Lima is famous. High and filled with layers of different strata matter... but mostly sand and stone. Think clean evolution desecrated by evidence of man, because at the top of each rise there was a layer of garbage. At the base of these beauties some wise soul had built 8-10 ft chain link fences. Like that is going to hold that "landslide in waiting" off the road.

Riding a through poorer area of Lima, but not slum like. Lots of broken windows. I am thinking that those with jobs & money fix their window, and those without don´t. Lots of unemployed folk here if my theory happens to be true.

I smell fish.

Driving for an hour and we gain the airport express roads, which are lined with tidy, nice looking buildings. Traffic was much lighter... it´s sunday and in this predominately catholic country most things are closed.

After an easy check in process, where Star Peru Airlines gets a B+, for friendly service, but only one check in agent was at the counter. However I was early and maybe they put on more staff later. I went upstairs and wandered the shops.

Starbucks?? didn´t have any soy milk, so I skipped the coffee.

A very nice lady gave me her long distance phone card with time still available on it, so I made a call to deal with something that has come up at home. Always a mom. When the friendly clerk at the phone centre asked me where I was going I told him Tarapoto and he just grimaced and said ¨hot¨. I shrugged and smiled.

Airport security was on the ball today, with frequent follow up bag checks for items that shouldn´t be there. Nice big container of confiscated items. After security I went to buy replacement water that I had to dump out before security screening. This morning I paid 30 cents, at the airport I paid $1.90. They wanted $3 for a snickers bar. Shouldn´t there be a rule that water can´t be price gouged after airport security screenings.

The sunburn I got yesterday on the city tour is uncomfortable. (cloudy day in the tropics still = sunburn, but I forgot)

I am sitting in my chair in the waiting room repeating the following mantra: "Not Lost Luggage. Unexpectedly Easy." Worked last time, and is working so far this time too. I think appreciatively of Christine, who blessed me with those words last year.

A woman was wheeled into the room, and she looked so much like my Mother-in-law it had all kinds of memories and feelings bubbling up. I loved her very much, and she me. I treasured her. Memories can be comforting.

It should be obvious by now that I am finding that not being able to communicate gives me plenty of time to observe, ponder and remember.

We had to bus it to the planes stairs, which is pretty typical in many large airports around the world. The plane was parked so close to us though we could have walked back and forth many times while waiting for the bus to fill and to drive around the corner. Once seated in the plane, it sure would have been nice to be able to talk to the kids in the seat next to me, they were really cute. Maybe my spanish lessans can happen while in Tarapoto. We´ll see.

Now I will interrupt my travelog with some thoughts on the Faces of Lima.

It is easy to see the history of the country of Peru in the faces of the people in Lima. Asian, African, Latin, Native Andean and Native Amazonian. There are faces that reflect a blending of these cultures, although not as much as we are used to seeing in our big cities. You can also see economic class in the details... teeth, clothes, skin and (my interpretation) the expressions and demeanor. Tip of the head, stoop of the shoulders etc.

Life is cheap here, a 1 sole tip brings considerable delight and appreciation... that's about 35 cents Canadian.

The latin / spanish population take their grooming seriously. The women are very well put together (high heeled mules and tight pants & dresses abound), but it is the men that really shine. OMG. Period. Full Stop. Not that there is a lack of grooming all around, because that is not the case. I sure feel like a fish out of water walking around in my travel cargo pants and loose shirts.

Can´t say I have seen any balding Andean men, lots of full heads of hair... maybe they just don´t get old enough, because come to think of it I haven´t seen any old Andean men. Their average life expectancy is 58, which is a depressing thought, although a reflection of their economic situation.

Back to my travels...

We take off and circle over the Pacific, passing above fleets of fishing boats huddled together , and not far off dozens of freighters, some full, some empty... a kaleidoscope (sp?) of colours. As we ascend they start to look like someone went crazy with a stapler on a piece of blue paper... Water looks like pebbled leather. Seeing a quiet Pacific Ocean is a novel experience.

Right turn and we head inland, and I revisit the views of great seas of beige sand blown up against black mountains, for miles and miles. We head into many, many layers of clouds. Only here have I witnessed this, the last time I was descending into the Amazon Basin. There are glimpses of the Cordillera Negra (black mountains) and an occasional green valley dotted with villages and a craggy looking road. Up into another layer of cloud which obscures the Cordillera Blanca (white mountains).

It is not long until I start to see the billowing blossoms of thunderclouds in the distance, over the Tropics. I look down and then there they are, the headwaters of the Amazon, rivers snaking off the mountains and through vegetation growing ever more green. I see a road linking small communities, and vow to find this area on a map. I think it is the road to Tingo Maria, the centre of the Cocoa growing areas.

Our descent begins over tropical hills. The area seems heavily deforested and doesn´t appear to be farmed, although it is hard to tell from such a high altitude.

I see a mountain range I want to traverse. Hills rising from the low clouds. True farmland begins. Wish I could get a picture of the squiggles of the rivers in the valley, like someone sprayed silly string from west to east..

Water, water, everywhere now. The rivers have taken on the pink colouring for which the Amazon River is famous.

Wish I could Paint. Wish I could come back for a flyover with a camera.

Sigh.

I had a friendly airport p/u... no english at the Hostal, which has basic digs and a very nice courtyard.

Took a warm evening stroll. Lots of lots of babies. Streets are fairly quiet, but it´s Sunday and most stores are closed. What can I say? The air is glorious, the climate perfect, (think Courteny on a hot, hot summers´evening) here in this lovely valley between the mountains.

Had enough for today? Ya, me too.

L.

PS. Note to Bert, should he be checking in:
You should get a gander at the ladies manning the checkouts at the supermarket in Lima. Same height, figures, make-up and hair... long and nicely tied up with yellow scrunchies, which match yellow buttoned down shirts over matching pants. Couldn-t get a good gander at their shoes though. Could hardly tell them apart.
Made me think of you :)