Kuelep

So I signed up for the typical tour of the Kuelep Ruins, bus in... follow guide around... bus back. chop, chop, chop.

As is common practice in Peru, the tour companies consolidate their passengers, so after the initial confusion we were a group of 12 or so. No I didn´t count. Two vehicles, and I lucked out in a cab with two other english speaking guidees. A lovely girl from Wisconsin and a very nice boy from Israel. OK, not girl & boy, but I had a good 25 years on both of them so let´s not quibble.

Conversation was lively, both my companions had been in South America for 9 months respectively and had lots of tales to tell. I am soooo glad I am not naor´s mother. I would not have even one hair on my head that was not grey. Note to my daughters... don´t you dare! And how come these two seem to speak fluent spanish without classes? Hmmm. I object.

The drive up was another long winding one, usual narrow dirt roads with frightful drops off the side. We did travel through an incredible area of tropical farms in the lands bordering the near overflowing river, and an incredible area of wild orange Echinacea. I notice more mosquitoes here (actually in chacha in general... my feet are eaten alive after a session in the internet cafes), bigger and bolder than those in Tarapoto city. Maybe there is just not enough traffic to keep them away!

Note about local garbage attitudes. Everything goes out the window. Bottles, bags, leftovers. I experience a small shock each time I see it. How doe you change this kind of attitude?

The bus takes us touristy types to within a short stroll to the entrance of the ruins (ok.. uphill, and yes, huffing and puffing), and we follow our spanish speaking guide around for a couple of hours.

I took tonnes of photos. Many a failed attempt at capturing the huge flock of parrots flying between the trees. :)

Small details of note:

These ruins are called the Manchu Picchu of northern peru. They are extensive, and still in the process of being excavated. Originally Chachapoyan, there were Inca influences that followed.

The city walls were unbreachable... a tall cloak with single file entranceways that allowed the destruction of any forces trying to enter. Great system... liken to the Chan Chan ruin in Trujillo.

No bathroom facilities in the buildings. Apparently most of their time was spent out in the fields and...

All the water for this large mountaintop fortress either came out of the sky during the rainy season, or got carried up the slopes in earthen jugs from the river far, far below. This is how the Inca conquered the place... cut off the water supply.

And back to the taxi for our homeward bound journey. One note here one passing practices on single laned curvy laneways. It is frightening. In all the crazy driving situations I have found myself in here, I have not until this day experienced real fear. On two occasions we were taking hairpin curves and encountered traffic. Very fast stop, and then our driver BACKS UP to make room for the other vehicles. We are on the outside hairpin edge of said single lane roads. And then we are backing up... um, there is no shoulder! I couldn`t see how he knew when to say when, but obviously I am still alive. Freaked, but alive.

In a small display of irony (given recent brush with death) we pass a funeral procession on the outskirts of one of the small clusters of homes that form a town. It looked like the whole town was there as the impeccably shiny, ornate white coffin was carried uphill towards whatever final resting place it faced. Black skirts, shawls, ponchos, sad faces, flowers being carried, music being played, prayers being recited and rosaries being clutched. This was what I caught in a first glance... I didn´t feel comfortable gawking and looked down until they passed. Knowing the poverty these farmers face I wonder how the coffin is afforded, then wonder if it is communal and somehow reused when required... I couldn`t find a tactful way to ask the guide... so this inquiring mind will still have to wonder.

Back to town in time for an absolutely fabulous sunset. Vivid blue with the sun reflecting off the clouds, turning the blue to robins egg and the clouds to gold. Then, as if someone turned off the light switch, it was gone. Back to a normal evening sky. Mesmerizing.

Met up with my two tour companions for a good veggie dinner, and then we all strolled. It is so much more comfortable wandering the streets after dark with company. Less intimidating. So we meandered. Had my first taste of a local pastry treat, liken to two shortbread cookies stuck together with a kind of caramel paste.

Yum.

We found ourselves having a nice evening conversation with a man named Jorje (George), and we wandered into a local watering hole and gave some of the local liqueurs, settled on a fruity brew and sat and chatted for a an hour or so. Friendly.

Still 2 days behind. Typing furiously here....

:)